Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Lee Terveen
Page Views: 102 total · 1/month
Shared By: BBQ on Apr 3, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

Ka-Pow has a sick, twisted variation that branches off left. After making the huge, ninja warrior moves at the opening sequence, move left. Careful Poindexter! You don't want to slip this one up!

Creep along the ledge and make that first clip. Clip the bolt and make a mental checklist; Is your belayer awake? Have you written your last will and testament? Do you have an undying love for overhung aretes with small, hidden holds? If you can answer "yes" to at least one of these questions, proceed.

Here's a hint, don't look down, don't look around you...just keep climbing up and eyeing the immediate area for that one hold that might keep your butt from flying off the arete. Like a date with Chris Brown, this is a climb that might end with a busted lip and a bruised ego. While the rides are safe, make sure whoever is holding your rope actually likes you. Make sure they understand that you might land on a ledge, or go wrapping around the corner, if they mentally check out as you claw your way to the next bolt.

You'd think this route would get easier the higher you cimb, but it doesn't. And when you finally get off the arete and see the anchors about twenty feet up the wall, you will be greeted by one of the hairest, scariest and most mentally challenging run-out sequences in the entire Spearfish Canyon.

How bad ass is this runout? Take a close look at Chris Brown's face! Do you want to end up looking like him? Want my advice? Keep your bee-otch in line by buying her flowers and chocolate as rewards for good behavior. Go to an anger management class if you find yourself wanting to hit your woman because she's sold more records than you. And oh yeah...don't fall after the last bolt of this climb.

Location

Located on the same buttress as Ka-Pow!

Protection

A clear leading head and experience with bold climbs. Maybe 10 quickdraws. This route has open-shut anchors.

Photos

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