Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Lee Terveen
Page Views: 477 total · 8/month
Shared By: BBQ on Oct 26, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Pure, Classic, Taster's Choice Sickness!

Oh my God this is the good shit! Pack your fingers into sick pockets, grab bomber crimps, and enjoy a long jaunt of high grade quality holds and fun moves that are well within your ability right up until the bomber, blonde rock turns into a beautiful, black steak of difficult moves-on gorgeous holds-that fight back with every ounce of their being.

Chock full of climbing that requires big moves and precise, technical placements that go from mellow to "AH HELL NO!" A crimpy, fitnessy finish will provide the appropriate heart breaking scenario even though the whole experience will leave you light-headed, breathless and stoked beyond imagination. Pure, pumpy euphoria with every inhale and exhale. What are you waiting for?! Tie in and feed your head!

THIS CLIMB REPRESENTS EVERYTHING THAT IS RIGHT ABOUT SPEARFISH CANYON!

Location

Second route to the right of the arete climb known as Indecent Exposure and just to the left of Ka-Powzer! Most of the routes in this part of the crag are a no-holds-barred festival of freakish fun!

Protection

Bring a dozen quickdraws. Open anchors.

Photos

Franck Vee
  5.12a
Franck Vee  
  5.12a
Didn't feel like there was much of a stopper move for the grade - it is relatively easy moves for a 12a, but it is sustained and it does go on for ever. Quality moves, especially liked the edges & sidepulls. Definitely do it, especially if like me you're trying to get into 5.12 league. Jul 29, 2017