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Routes in Twelve Pack Wall

Briefcase Fulla Blues T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
C'est le Morte T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chunky Monkey S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crux of the Biscuit is the Apostrophe (aka Unknown J), The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Honey, I Shrunk the Hemmorrhoids T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Love, Sex, and the IRS T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pump You Up T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Raw Fish and Rice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
See You, See Me T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spit Fires and Funeral Parlours T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Unknown 2 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown K T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 75 ft
FA: a lizard
Page Views: 392 total · 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Mar 11, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

This is actually kind of a fun line, although the lack of continuity drops the star rating a bit. When/if you wander the Twelve Pack Wall's right side looking for a line to call out to you, you might just see this line and rack up. It's not quite as hard as it looks, but the pro is small at the crux.

To the right of Chunky Monkey by perhaps 40 feet, you will see a S-shaped line in a left-facing dihedral of a pair. Start up in the double cracks with good body scums. There is a slightly reachy (especially for those 5'4") bit perhaps 25 feet up where you can scoot to the left crack if necessary. That is probably the physical crux. Then, you need to move right where the crack gets too small for pro or fingers. You can get a #3 BD wire here before you reach out right for the arete hold. That's a fun move and probably the mental crux. Continue up the arete or dihedral to a ledge. Finish off the line on slightly more licheny terrain. There is an old small Friend stuck in a crack near the top. Create a gear anchor.

The name used here is how it is listed in Jason Haas' colorful guidebook.

To descend, you can walk off to the right.

Oh yeah, Jackie saw a lizard climbing up and down the route...ropeless, of course.

Location

This is ~40 feet right of Chunky Monkey. It starts the same as for Pump You Up or just to the left.

Protection

Up to a #3.5 Camalot with a #3 BD wire is nice. Some longer slings for your anchor will reduce rope wear. The anchor we used included #3, 3.5 Camalots and an orange Alien.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
This route does not start the same as "Pump You Up". "Pump You Up" starts about 5 feet to the left in an independent crack system. Apr 25, 2013

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