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Routes in Twelve Pack Wall

Briefcase Fulla Blues T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
C'est le Morte T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chunky Monkey S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crux of the Biscuit is the Apostrophe (aka Unknown J), The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Honey, I Shrunk the Hemmorrhoids T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Love, Sex, and the IRS T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pump You Up T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Raw Fish and Rice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
See You, See Me T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spit Fires and Funeral Parlours T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Unknown 2 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown K T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: [Pat and Azenda Thompson]
Page Views: 1,871 total, 10/month
Shared By: George Bell on Jan 31, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


58 Opinions

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Description

This is the bolted line left of "Honey, I Shrunk the Hemorrhoids" that passes through the right side of a 3' roof.

I found this route contrived - if you follow the exact line of the bolts, it is probably much harder than 5.9. However, if you stay 3' farther right near a corner, it is a lot easier, maybe not even 5.9 (this avoids the big roof completely). Above the roof, move left to a 2 bolt anchor (one with missing hanger). Hubbel's guide shows this anchor as the end of the route, but somebody has added 2 more bolts and a top anchor to make an enjoyable finish.

Protection

8 or 9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Ben D.
Colorado
5.9-
Ben D.   Colorado
5.9-
I kind of agree with Ralph. Climbed it tonight and felt the lower slab moves 5.9ish, especially if you stay on the bolt line (or slightly left until moving right at the third bolt). I tried pulling the roof several times staying just right of the bolt line but left of the arete/big crack. I tried several heel hooks but didn't see any that were 10a-ish. Eventually I bailed and just climbed right of the arete.

I've always liked this route and would still give it a star (or two) and a 5.9 grade based on the thin slab moves below the roof and the nice, vertical jug haul above. The only inconsistency is figuring out how to pull the roof, as I believe the route was originally intended to do.

FYI, in the old Hass/Schneider book this route is called "Unknown J". Oct 30, 2014
Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.10b
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.10b
The book calls this 10a / 10d. It states 10a is if the roof is avoided to the right and 10d if you pull the roof by way of the arete with no cheating to the right.

That's Table for ya, a lot of climbs are cheatable, you just gotta will yourself to stay on the line.

I found the thin slab/face moves to the left of the bolts (10bish) to be very pleasurable. I went around the roof to the right and scoped out the holds and then when I was being lowered from the anchors, I tr'd the roof by using the arete but not going any further right, then heel hooking and pulling the roof. 10d for sure! and fun! I shoulda went for it on the lead, but it's hard to read and the moves leading up to it are hard as well.

More fun moves after the roof.

Really good climb if the line is followed. Sep 5, 2014
Ralph Kolva
Evergreen, CO
 
Ralph Kolva   Evergreen, CO
 
Not a bad route if you stick to the slabby stuff climbing directly over the bolts and then pull the roof without bailing out right. If you stay to the right of the route all the way, I would probably say about 5.7 or 5.8. Mar 7, 2009
Also found the route to be a little contrived. Heel hooked over the roof just to make it a bit more interesting. Nov 10, 2007
PATRICK THOMPSON  
  5.9-
....New anchor and bolts added several years ago to make a much more enjoyable climb. Apr 25, 2005
Darin Lang
  5.9
Darin Lang  
  5.9
Contrived, but still fun. 10b or so if you follow the bolt line over the right side of the roof. Mar 29, 2004
The slab below the big roof is interesting, especially for N Table, where slab climbing is relatively absent. The route is longer than most at Table, so I found it to be pretty enjoyable. Feb 8, 2004