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Routes in Twelve Pack Wall

Briefcase Fulla Blues T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
C'est le Morte T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chunky Monkey S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crux of the Biscuit is the Apostrophe (aka Unknown J), The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Honey, I Shrunk the Hemmorrhoids T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Love, Sex, and the IRS T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pump You Up T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Raw Fish and Rice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
See You, See Me T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spit Fires and Funeral Parlours T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Unknown 2 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown K T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 697 total · 4/month
Shared By: Randy Carmichael on Aug 7, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Perfect jams lead to a bulge crux with tricky sequencing.

Where is it? This climb is in a corner about 20 feet right of the "Chunky Monkey" arĂȘte. The start is identified by two parallel cracks. The crack on the right looks like an "S" and is about 40' in length.

Start by jamming up the two cracks. As the cracks thin at a bulge, you will follow the left crack up a corner. The bulge can either be negotiated head on or by staying right of the bulge and then moving left across the top of the bulge (fun!). Protection at this point is thin, but I found a good placement for a blue Alien (3/8") in the left crack. Move straight up the corner to a ledge with loose rock. Carefully move left on the ledge and follow the last two bolts of "Chunky Monkey" to bolted anchors.

Protection

Small cams up to 1", small stoppers, several slings, and a couple of quickdraws.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
 
Jay Eggleston   Denver
 
The route is posted here as going up the last two bolts on "Chunky Monkey", but in the Haas/Schneider book, it is shown as going up a crack from the ledge where it is said to go left on here. I guess you can go left if you want to go to a bolted anchor, but you won't be doing the whole route if you do. Apr 25, 2013