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Routes in Twelve Pack Wall

Briefcase Fulla Blues T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
C'est le Morte T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chunky Monkey S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crux of the Biscuit is the Apostrophe (aka Unknown J), The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Honey, I Shrunk the Hemmorrhoids T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Love, Sex, and the IRS T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pump You Up T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Raw Fish and Rice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
See You, See Me T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spit Fires and Funeral Parlours T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Unknown 2 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown K T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Deaun Schovajsa and Dave Gottenborg, circa 1993
Page Views: 6,707 total, 35/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Mar 30, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


107 Opinions

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Description

This route follows a moderate slab to an airy arete higher on the route, clipping 4 bolts as you go. There are a few runouts that can be sewn up with small cams. The reachy moves at the start and the 3rd bolt will kept on your toes. Enjoy....

Protection

A few cams to 1", will protect the runouts before and after the first bolt.
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.7
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.7
You can place gear between the first two bolts, but the start is difficult. Oct 11, 2017
Katelin E
  5.7
Katelin E  
  5.7
Bolts are far apart making it pretty freaky and dangerous for someone sport leading who is truly at a 5.7 ability. E.g. if you fall trying to clip into the second bolt, there is a real chance of a groundfall, and from the higher bolts, you risk a ledge fall. The first bolt is super tough and scary if not clipped in for a 5.7. Oct 11, 2017
Mike13  
Led this today, fun climbing; however, over half the bolts spin including the cold shut and both anchors. If the run out is already bothering you a little bit, the spinners are not inspiring to climb above. Just something to think about when you look at it from the ground. Mar 6, 2016
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.8
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.8
Fun! Start to the right in a crack for added interest. Bring a few hand to finger-sized cams and skip most of the bolts - particularly that spinning coldshut! Jan 30, 2013
teece303
Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.7+ R
teece303   Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.7+ R
I led this years ago, just clipping the bolts. Today, since it was my first lead in years, I put some gear in, too, to calm my nerves.

This is a great route. Yes, it is a tiny bit run out by Table standards but barely. The biggest run-out is at the bottom on really easy climbing.

The start is the hardest part of the route, and the arĂȘte near the third bolt is the crux higher up. Good holds, a tiny bit balance-y at bolt three, but just commit and it's fine. Jan 10, 2013
Dave J  
Please don't retrobolt a nearly 20 year old climb. Toprope it or lead one of the other moderates in the area. It is also safe with supplemental gear. Not everything needs to be gym-ified. Oct 10, 2011
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.7+
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.7+
Difficult opening moves for 5.7 leader with no protection. Basically, it's a couple of overhanging bouldering moves and somewhat insecure feet right before a bolt at 20 feet off the deck. Factor in ground-fall potential for second bolt clip (although after admittedly easier terrain) and ledge fall clipping the anchors, and this route is potentially dangerous for someone new to leading. I for one would welcome the addition to 3 bolts to this route, which would add a nice beginner lead to the area. Oct 10, 2011
MilkyTech
  5.7 R
MilkyTech  
  5.7 R
Had my first lead climb on this for my fourth ever ascent. Pretty scary clipping [what I think was] the 4th bolt from around the corner (a little off route) 3 or 4 feet above the last bolt! Damn proud feeling of accomplishment. Banged out the 5.9 just to the left of this immediately after on top rope and seemed like a piece of cake with my confidence raging from leading this. Jul 21, 2011
Fred C.
Golden, CO
  5.7 PG13
Fred C.   Golden, CO
  5.7 PG13
Good lead route with a few nice rest points. I would suggest beginner leaders bring supplemental trad gear to place between runouts (definitely good spots for this), otherwise it could get real sketchy real fast. Apr 29, 2011
beehler
Lakewood, CO
  5.7 PG13
beehler   Lakewood, CO
  5.7 PG13
Still a loose block near the third bolt. Sep 1, 2009
FA was Deaun Schovajsa and Dave Gottenborg circa 1993. Nov 26, 2008
Thomas W
Boulder, CO
  5.7 R
Thomas W   Boulder, CO
  5.7 R
I thought the route was pretty run out. Also, there is a big loose (basketball sized) chunk of rock around the 3rd bolt, so watch out. Tried to mark it, but didn't work very well. May 24, 2006
Ryan Bibler
MT
  5.7
Ryan Bibler   MT
  5.7
Runout (for N Table) but the climbing is easy between the bolts. Plus it's longer than most N Table routes, so it's probably a good beginner lead. May 1, 2006
Jonathan Hall
  5.7+
Jonathan Hall  
  5.7+
Hey this is a great route and very fun. Good beginner lead. Starts off low and then the angle increases as well as the bolts. All the holds are there and the bolting is well done as the pitch and angle go up. I recommend this route. It might even be a three star for the rating. Nov 19, 2004
Michael J Yarros
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Michael J Yarros   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
My first route at Golden years ago. Nice route. Oct 6, 2004