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Routes in Twelve Pack Wall

Briefcase Fulla Blues T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
C'est le Morte T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chunky Monkey S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Crux of the Biscuit is the Apostrophe (aka Unknown J), The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Honey, I Shrunk the Hemmorrhoids T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Love, Sex, and the IRS T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pump You Up T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Raw Fish and Rice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
See You, See Me T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spit Fires and Funeral Parlours T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Unknown 2 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown K T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: R. Berk, Dave Hart, Ryan Nassimbene, '87
Page Views: 413 total, 4/month
Shared By: Mark Roth on Dec 11, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

The hardest part is not dying before you get decent gear in.... You should always be suspicious of climbs with Funeral in the title. The moves are not too hard, the gear is just a bit thin at the start. When you finally get a bomber nut, the difficulties are almost over.

Location

This is just right of Chunky Monkey (just had a pint last night, mmmm). Climb the dirty, thin face to a right-facing flake, and then angle up left on a sloping ledge to join Chunky Monkey. Use its last 2 or 3 bolts and anchor.

Protection

Some small gear (RP or micro cam), a mid-sized nut, a green C4 and some quickdraws.

Photos

Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9- R
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.9- R
Leo added the photo showing where I found good tri-cam placement in the horizontal crack. Now you might only fall 12 ft before breaking your back on the boulder. I opted to lead Chunky Monkey and TR Spit Fires. The first clip on Chunky is a bit high also, but the landing is better and there's the stick-clip option. Mar 12, 2012
Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.9- R
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.9- R
The start is definitely a little spicy. The first gear is 15' up, and there is a back breaking boulder below the initial moves. Use Caution. Dec 11, 2009