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Routes in East Face

Brain Child S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cannibals S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Conform or Be Cast Out S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Death Tongue S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Drop Out Left T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop Out Right T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Farewell to Arms T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Feat S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Missing Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mole's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Night Gallery aka Rick and Eric's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Nova Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pump Lust S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rage Reduction T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Reductio ad absurdum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sanitation Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Side Effect T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Telegraph Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to My Nightmare T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Scott Frye
Page Views: 4,632 total · 56/month
Shared By: Rob Eison on Dec 23, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details


A technical masterpiece of face-climbing wizardry exemplifying the best Donner has to offer. This is the first route in the Cannibals Gully to the right of the "Little Feat" arete. Work up into a shallow right-facing dihedral, then follow the left trending panel on a series of thin liebacks and underclings. Tackle the thuggish, devious boulder problem with seemingly nonexistent feet which then deposits you at a "thank god" jug for recovery at half heighth. The upper face challenges you with a series of small crimps, side pulls, small pinches and finally the infamous "peanut," none of which will do you much good unless you deduce the footwork trickery.

Hard for the grade.


Among the east face climbs just to the right of the "Little Feat" arete in the Cannibals Gully.


About 8 quickdraws and 2 for the anchors


peachy spohn  
An amazing route. The "Corner of Hell" is the hardest part, but the peanut at the top is a heart breaker! Definitely harder than 12d, but I guess you got to go with the flow. Aug 25, 2012
J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado
^^^^^ "Harder than 12d"

Indeed all the locals know full well that Cannibals is 5.13, but they will all nevertheless state to you in person that it is 12d with a *wink, wink*....tradition I guess. This includes Mr. Eison who entered the route (and broke a good foothold while running laps on the route) and my friend, Mr. Kennedy (aka Sergeant Sandbag) who is a longtime local. I think most routes put up by Mr. Frye are graded as "Scott Frye 5.xx" with everyone knowing that it is code for "the route is hard for the grade". Nov 30, 2012
Rob Eison
Denver, CO
Rob Eison   Denver, CO
Guilty as charged on all counts! I succumbed to the brainwashing as well. I bet Russ is still grumbling about the foot chip... Dec 6, 2012
Loaded with hard climbing from the ground to the top. My vote for the best sport route anywhere. My wife was thrilled to belay my final attempt because she new that I would finally be done spending so much time with a four year mistress who occupied so much of my time, thoughts, and passion. Ruthless at 12.d but oh so sweet that it will always remain so! Aug 5, 2013
peachy spohn  
Just as amazing as I remember and What a great climb. It was colder than last August and the holds were much tackier! Aug 31, 2013
shitlake tahoe
Schwisow   shitlake tahoe
A few years back Seth led the direct start on small gear just right of Little Feat. A small crack that doesnt use any of Little feat holds. Try it out. 13- i think he said. Nov 27, 2013
Please don't use red colored chalk to tick holds. It leaves the rock red after brushing. Don't get too carried away with ticks in general. 8 tick marks on the final horizontal is a bit overkill. Gotta leave them climbs pretty! Sep 14, 2016

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