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Routes in East Face

Brain Child S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cannibals S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Conform or Be Cast Out S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Death Tongue S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drop Out Left T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop Out Right T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Farewell to Arms T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Feat S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Missing Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mole's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nova Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pump Lust S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rage Reduction T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Reductio ad absurdum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rick and Eric's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sanitation Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Side Effect T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Telegraph Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to My Nightmare T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Max Jones, 1977
Page Views: 2,238 total · 12/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 29, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Notes Details

Description

Located on the extreme north side of the east face of snowshed wall, this short route heads up a flared crack from atop a large block.

You can throw all different types of jams to pull yourself up this route, and there are also small holds outside of the crack for hands and feet if you need them.

Protection

medium to large friends (1" - 3 1/2") and nuts.

You can set up a top anchor using pro on top of the crack, or a draggy anchor from the top bolts of the next climb over called Conform or Be Cast Out (5.11c/d).

Photos

213blc
THA WEST COAST
  5.10b/c
213blc   THA WEST COAST
  5.10b/c
If you are to place a directional, locate it just above the bulge (i.e., not too high) or risk rope eating fun! Sweet little crack! Jul 18, 2012
Patrick Mulligan
  5.10c
Patrick Mulligan  
  5.10c
Short but stout. I was amazed at the pump this created... Dec 15, 2011
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I disagree with the beta for pro up to 3 1/2. Largest I brought was a #2 camalot I didn't even place. 1 x #.5 camalot (protected last move to anchors), 1 x #.75 camalot, 2 x #1 camalot, and 1 x yellow alien. And that was no "hero" lead: this is a short crack.

It's a fun crack requiring some thin jams and some face moves. It is a good option if the entire East side of Snowshed is getting railed like a sexy grandma. Sep 13, 2010
426
 
426  
 
Short but on you almost immediately. Pro's well if you've got firepower in reserve... Mar 6, 2007

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