Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Big Hunk (Southwest Face)

Black Tuna, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cryogenics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cyborg S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Midnight Dreamer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Transformers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Dino Banco, Kelly Vaught & Frank Bentwood
Page Views: 630 total · 7/month
Shared By: Murf on Oct 30, 2011
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb the left line of bolts through horizontals and ledges. Of the "Rambler" routes, this is the better one. Even so, the rock quality isn't the best and the moves aren't very distinctive.

Location

The South Face of Big Hunk is located in the corridor between between Big and Little Hunk. Walk through the valley between Snickers - North Face and Little Hunk. Walk around SW Face Right (Monkey Business Wall) to the left and continue past Little Hunk - NE Face (Left). From here you can see Midnight Dreamer. Start just right on a higher boulder.

This seems to be in the same general area as Midnight Rambler a reported Swain/Bartlett route.

Protection

Bolts to bolted anchor. The anchor is poorly positioned for any sort of TR'ing, so bring something to extend with if that is your plan.

Photos

- No Photos -
Randy
 
Randy  
 
7 bolts. OK route, but anchor is far too high (lots of drag when rapping or TR'ing). Should double the last bolt and make that the anchor. Oct 30, 2011
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.9
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.9
I found this route to be very enjoyable, pseudo loose rock but better quality and less fracturing than the Transfomer. Varnished rock with large holds and up the obvious weakness, not forced and a nice natural line. The ledge toward the top is dirty with grains and chunks that may want to rifle onto your belayer so heads up.

The last 2 bolts are fun enough climbing but agreed create unnecessary drag on the rope. In our case we rapped the route and pulled through for the second lead eliminating the problem. Dec 6, 2011
Rolf Rybak
Penticton BC
Rolf Rybak   Penticton BC
Worth doing if your in the area as a warm up to Transformers. Didn't find any rope drag setting up the TR for the seconds. Feb 15, 2014

More About The Black Tuna

Printer-Friendly