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Routes in Big Hunk (Southwest Face)

Black Tuna, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cryogenics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cyborg S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Midnight Dreamer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Transformers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: (TR) Ross Janke, 1998, FL: Paul Borne & Al Swanson
Page Views: 733 total, 10/month
Shared By: Murf on Oct 30, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This one starts in the same place as Midnight Dreamer, but promptly moves left via technical climbing on a ledge. The climbing then goes straight up, on thin, sharp, crimps to a small overlap. Ease your tips in the wonderfully smooth pocket, then launch through the overlap into the bullet hard patina. Trend right to a ledge, then over a final short headwall.

Still needs some cleaning, but this is easily the best route on the wall. A number of people have commented that it is reminiscent of a easy Rap Bolters are Weak.

Location

The South Face of Big Hunk is located in the corridor between between Big and Little Hunk. Walk through the valley between Snickers - North Face and Little Hunk. Circle around SW Face Right (Monkey Business Wall) to the left and continue past Little Hunk - NE Face (Left). Start from boulders under Midnight Dreamer.

Protection

This route is sport bolted with 9 bolts, two bolt rap anchor.

Photos

Rolf Rybak
Penticton BC
Rolf Rybak   Penticton BC
I really liked this route, a short technical crux followed by continuous 5.10 engaging climbing. 10D seems honest. Feb 15, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10b/c
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10b/c
The climbing is fun up the edges but part of the thrill is that they are very creaky thus making the climbing somewhat delicate. Downward pulling and choss climbing technique is a must.

Being well bolted takes most of the fear factor away but still leaves for technical difficulty. Crux may be not using the bongo flake up top or going for the anchors.

What happens when it cleans up???????? Only time will tell. Nov 26, 2011
Randy
 
Randy  
 
9 Bolts. 3 of 5 stars.

Excellent route, but as Murf mentions, should have ended on large ledge before topping out. Oct 30, 2011
Murf
 
Murf  
 
The last headwall section seems forced and doesn't add to the route. Oct 30, 2011