Midnight Dreamer
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02661, -116.15112 |
| FA: | Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt, December 1978 |
| Page Views: | 1,357 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Murf on Oct 30, 2011 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Move through a small roof at the bottom and climb the crack through a series of ledges. The best top out is to clip the last bolt of The Black Tuna and move through the headwall to a two bolt anchor.
Location
The South Face of Big Hunk is located in the corridor between between Big and Little Hunk. Walk through the valley between Snickers - North Face and Little Hunk. Circle around SW Face Right (Monkey Business Wall) to the left and continue past Little Hunk - NE Face (Left). The south face it on the right through some boulders. This route is located on the high right portion of the face with dark rock.



3 Comments