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Routes in The Dark Side

Butt Scum T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Dark Mark, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dark Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark and Difficult Times S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Half Stack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hermits Hideout T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lurking Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lurking in the Bushes T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mojo Risin T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Resident Evil T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Short Stack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stack, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Unknown?
Page Views: 660 total, 9/month
Shared By: Michael Z. on Oct 10, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

P1 40, 5.9 Climb a shallow corner (gear) to ledge and a bolt then move right and up a face past two more bolts to an anchor.

P2 40. 5.11 There is a second pitch that climbs up the huge detached block and has a fews bolts and a bolt anchor.

Location

Under the huge detached block, about fifty feet left of "Resident Evil".

Protection

A few bolts and maybe a piece or two of gear, Bolted Anchors
Michael Z.  
 
Sure is reachy. If I remember correctly there is a cheater stone at the left side of the large ledge I've used to clip the the bolt. I would have placed it back there. Or maybe bring a short stick clip. That's just clipping the bolt. Nice position on top of the stack though when you top out. Jun 9, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
1st pitch would get 3 stars from me, second pitch 1 star.

First pitch is thought provoking, well protected, and generally enjoyable from the interesting shallow corner at the start right up to the engaging mantle move at the top.
I found the second pitch to be reachy (and I'm 6'2") and a little awkward. That would be ok but one of the tough spots is right above a big ledge I really didn't want to fall on. It is worth climbing but there are MUCH better 5.11s on the cliff. Jun 2, 2016