Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Main Cliff

Looking for Goldilocks T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Short But Sweet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Rich Baker, Mark Wilson, Andy Ross 1987
Page Views: 118 total · 1/month
Shared By: matthew ritter on Sep 6, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick

Description [Edit]

The beautiful left-facing corner just left of SHORT BUT SWEET. Climb the slab to a flexy piton, pull over the roof cruxfully, then follow finger a crack with some tricky gear to a crux gaining a beautifully splitter hand crack higher up.

Location [Edit]

Main Cliff just left of SHORT BUT SWEET

Protection [Edit]

Piton, normal rack to 3 inches. a screamer for piton


Matt did you climb this? Ive been to the base but it was super dirty. I do believe a cleaning is in order. Sep 19, 2011
This is a great pitch that a quick scrub would do it some good.
One of the first new routes I ever did and what a fun day with both Rich and Mark.
Sadly, Rich passed away last year way before his time. Sep 22, 2011
matthew ritter
West Campton, New Hampshire
matthew ritter   West Campton, New Hampshire
Yes i scrubbed it with a friend. No i didnt climb it. it could use more work. Sep 23, 2011
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
This really is a worthy pitch. I led it around '97 and it was dirty but doable. Great crack climbing with tricky gear, as I remember.

It's a nice complement to Lumberjack Crack. Sep 24, 2011
matthew ritter
West Campton, New Hampshire
matthew ritter   West Campton, New Hampshire
i actually did climb it i forgot because i aided it.... um yes some tricky gear for sure especially at the second crux pulling into the hand crack. first piton should be a shiny new bolt! Sep 29, 2011

More About Looking for Goldilocks