Found Ledge Rock Climbing
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|Shared By:||matthew ritter on Oct 29, 2011|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall|
The Little Slab offers some nice 5.7 to 5.8+/5.9-, slab climbing fairly well protected with 3/8" bolts; some routes might even qualify as "sport" climbs. By moving about on lower-angled slab at the level of the anchors, one can even TR the more difficult climbs after leading one of the easier routes.
More serious "stuff" can be found on the Dunn Boulder , Main Wall, and the Lumberjack Wall.
These climbs are relatively short and the trees make this cliff slow to dry out.
From Conway, drive 4.9 miles west on the Kanc to a pulloff on the south side of the road. The pulloff is 1.2 miles east of the Albany Covered Bridge. (There is a "Scenic By-Ways" sign on the north [river] side of the road. (photo)]
About 100 yds west of the "Scenic By-Ways" sign (just where the road starts to curve) look for the big downed tree (photo), cross over the tree and in a few paces turn left (east) along a clear area (old logging road???) [You are now walking parallel to the Kanc* towards Conway.] Follow this 100 yds*, or so, until almost at the stream, turn right [cairn at base of tree] and follow a fairly cleared (2013-2014) path up through the woods. After 10-15 minutes up this path you'll go through a large blown-down tree, ( now, 2022, possibly decayed away) and 2-3 minutes later reach the stream at a large cairn (photo).
June 2020 Update - The path is pretty obvious up to the "split" where the path splits at the "T-Branch" to Little Slab & Lumberjack.
At the cairn, the best path now** is to cross the stream to the left and diagonal steeply up hill (the only even moderately steep terrain on the approach). About 5-10 minutes later the path will turn from spruce to hardwood forest and the path will swing around to the right and reach a "T-branch". [The "T" is before you step over the depression (which is the nascent stream bed with a small cairn) towards the Dunn Boulder, which should be easily visible (photo).] It should take you about 20-25 min. the first time you hike this, less once you know the path.
See the photo "Map of Area near cliffs".
Go straight ahead for the Dunn Boulder (photo) and the Main Cliff.
For Little Slab and Lumberjack Wall turn left before the Dunn Boulder [map in the Handren guide is wrong. Where the map shows moving left from the Main Wall is a jungle of boulders and vegetation. ] After turning left, the path moves through open hardwoods for a minute or two, passes to climber's right of a boulder, and then turns right to pick up the small drainage from the Little Slab and climbs directly up. About 1-2 minutes from the "T". Lumberjack is left of Little Slab.
[ * Yes, seemingly you could have parked the car this 100yds east of the big tree and saved this "backtracking", but the woods between the road and the clear (logging?) road are quite swampy and messy going. ]
[ ** An older, now overgrown, approach may have followed the stream on the right up to the Dunn Boulder. ]
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