Vulgar Display of Power
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Robert DeZonia |
Page Views: | 2,046 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Rob DeZonia on Sep 3, 2011 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
P1. (5.11b) This is a sustained burl fest. One of the best crack climbs in the area outside of Lumpy or Vedauwoo. It takes a steep layback flake to an overhanging fist crack in a right-leaning, right-facing corner. The fist crack turns into hands and a pumpy lieback before the grade eases off. The rock is awesome.
Start by climbing a fun 5.6 chimeny onto the top of a little, leaning block. You can also start by scrambling up from the left on easy fifth class to this point. Pull up into a slabby, left-facing corner that becomes the right-facing flake. A 5.10+ finger lock gains you the flake.
Climb up to a ledge around 80' or 90' I thing. I think #1 and 2 Camalot sizes will provide a decent belay.
P2. (5.9) Work your way up into the right-facing corner above. I like to move out right at a crack on the left as soon as the ange of the climb eases and belay from a tree just below the summit on the slab. A crack that fits a nice large nut will back up the tree.
Start by climbing a fun 5.6 chimeny onto the top of a little, leaning block. You can also start by scrambling up from the left on easy fifth class to this point. Pull up into a slabby, left-facing corner that becomes the right-facing flake. A 5.10+ finger lock gains you the flake.
Climb up to a ledge around 80' or 90' I thing. I think #1 and 2 Camalot sizes will provide a decent belay.
P2. (5.9) Work your way up into the right-facing corner above. I like to move out right at a crack on the left as soon as the ange of the climb eases and belay from a tree just below the summit on the slab. A crack that fits a nice large nut will back up the tree.
3 Comments