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Routes in North Face

Dancing Feet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Deception T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Deception Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Harvey's Wallbangers Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harvey's Wallbangers, Center T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Harvey's Wallbangers, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knapsack Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Manic Depressive Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Reds Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spam Sandwich T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wave Rider T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 894 total, 12/month
Shared By: Josh Cameron on Aug 31, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Low angle dike climbing with a little friction thrown in for good measure. The direct start begins directly below a thin right flacing flake. The crux is one unprotected friction move to reach the flake. Plug in some small pro, then climb runout, but easy, dikes to the anchor. You can place medium cams in a hidden pod to the right of the dikes.

The original start is farther right at a pine. Head up a crack then traverse left to an old bolt. Continue moving left and up until you can reach the flake mentioned above. The climbing above becomes easier as more dikes appear. Belay at the bolted anchor about 20 or 30 feet right of "Manic Depressive's" crack.

You have two options for the second pitch. Traverse left on dikes and finish "Manic Depressive." Or (more fun) climb up and right across smooth friction to reach a rectangular block. Above this block, follow the finger crack through the small overlaps until upward progress is blocked by a roof. Make an easy traverse left to join "Manic Depressive." The second pitch does not have an "R" rating.

Location

Follow the ledge right of Knapsack Crack (some 4th class moves) until the ledge widens out. This is the direct start.

Protection

Thin to medium sized gear. An old 1/4 bolt with a sheet metal hanger protects the original start.

Photos

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Jason Ogasian
South Lake Tahoe
Jason Ogasian   South Lake Tahoe
One bolt and the anchor were replaced on this route in 2011 thanks to support from the ASCA.



safeclimbing.org/ Oct 15, 2012