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Routes in North Face

Dancing Feet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Deception T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Deception Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Harvey's Wallbangers Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harvey's Wallbangers, Center T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Harvey's Wallbangers, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knapsack Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Manic Depressive Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Reds Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spam Sandwich T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wave Rider T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
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Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,827 total · 30/month
Shared By: Jerry Cagle on Jul 18, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Refuge Jared, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The traverse on P1 is a tad brushy... You'll know you're on Center when you do this traverse. Going straight up would take you onto Harvey Wallbangers Right.

Location

Right of Deception. Climb up some 3rd/4th class slabs to an obvious LARGE pine tree to start P1. You can't miss it.

Protection

Gear. Nuts and Cams.

Photos

Josh Cameron
California
  5.6
Josh Cameron   California
  5.6
Not the best route here, but a fun outing if the other routes are crowded. The short first pitch has some dusty loose rock so be careful. After that, the rock quality improves quite a bit. Fun bulges at the top: a mantel followed by a bulge with a handcrack. Resist the temptation to bail to the right onto easier ground. Jul 17, 2011
My wife and I both thought this was a really fun route - some finger and hand jams at the start of p2, cool liebacking and mantles at the top. Josh is right on - after you pull the first 5.6 mantle the second 5.7 mantle is irresistible and very well protected. Jul 1, 2013
Logan Swartz
Davis, CA
  5.6
Logan Swartz   Davis, CA
  5.6
I recommend bringing doubles. Sep 9, 2013
Boriss
Sacramento
 
Boriss   Sacramento
 
On pitch one avoid climbing the "L'" Flake, instead climb the corner to the left of it. At the top of the Flake you make a traverse left on some dangerously loose rocks. They are in direct view of your belayer and other approaching climbers.

Also the belay on the top of pitch 1 has a loose vertical block, avoid using it but if you do be careful. Apr 19, 2015
Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA
 
Austin Donisan   San Mateo, CA
 
The SuperTopo guide book says the pitches are 50' and 120', but a 60m rope is too short to link them. Probably the first pitch is actually a bit longer. Apr 20, 2015

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