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Routes in North Face

Dancing Feet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Deception T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Deception Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Harvey's Wallbangers Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harvey's Wallbangers, Center T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Harvey's Wallbangers, Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knapsack Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Manic Depressive Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Reds Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Spam Sandwich T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wave Rider T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,718 total, 31/month
Shared By: andrewjessee1 on Sep 26, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

More Sustained than the Center route. Pretty strait forward. First pitch has a lot of easy lay back and face. Crux section is on the short, if you belay about 180' from the start, second pitch. Two bulges with good hands.

Location

Just right of Harvey's Wallbangers, Center.

Protection

set nuts, cams .5 to 3 in

Photos

can do in 1 pitch with a 70m rope. belay 20' or so up from the tree or simul a little bit.

fun worthwhile route. I didn't see the need for a 4" piece to safely protect the crux roof. A 3" for the first roof, then a 1" for the second roof. Jul 25, 2016
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
  5.7+
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
  5.7+
I did this early March when there was still snow from the previous weekend. We started on Harvey's left and retreated because of ice after a few pieces up.

The first pitch of Harvey's right is pretty straightforward with some liebacks. Try to construct the belay closer to the crux on pitch 2 to minimize drag. Being the scared 5.7 trad climber I am, I was intimidated by the crux bulge and thus avoided it by traversing over to Harvey's left right before the crux. You can do this by delicately finding feet on small dikes. There is a bulge on the left route to that I beach-whaled but much less scary than the 5.7 crux. If you do this, bring LONG slings as there will be a lot of rope drag. Or just do the regular route. Mar 9, 2015
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.7
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.7
Fun liebacking with a fun roof. A #4 C4 will protect the crux move. I always felt the first bulge was the crux, while the second was relatively tame. Just follow Michael's beta and you should be fine. Jul 17, 2011
Michaeld916
Sacramento, CA
Michaeld916   Sacramento, CA
Route is worth doing if you're trying to break away from 5.5-5.6 trad.

First pitch is dirty till about half way up, then it follows a pretty fun crack about 40 feet till 2nd pitch. From there, burn up the rest of the crack to a couple of awkward bulges. First one requires some nice jamming skills and high feet. Second (the "5.7" ) bulge will scare you if you're only looking at the tiny dike running parallel with the crack. Look to the right for a solid crack, then do a horizontal pull up (beach whale) or with finesse, then it's sent. Oct 15, 2010