Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 19,091 total · 102/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Jan 23, 2007
Admins: Lurker -, Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


299 Opinions

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Access Issue: Be aware of Caldor Fire closures - Up to date info here: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/ Details

Description

Deception shares the same start as Deception Direct, which takes the obvious vertical crack which goes up the entire formation, to the right/west of Knapsack.

Start up the crack in the corner, and once it becomes feasible to mantle up to the left, do so, and continue up and belay on a blocky ledge. If you miss the obvious mantle/traverse and head straight up, you're on deception direct, which has a thin 5.9 rp protected crux.

2nd pitch goes up, traverses left to a crack which parallels the first crack. Continue up this crack for a long way, then make an exciting 5.6 crux slab smear traverse to rejoin the original crack, and belay on the ledge.

3rd pitch pulls some blocky 5.6 mantles to the summit, short.

Location

50' right/west of Knapsack crack. I would suggest this climb to fledgling leaders, since there is a lot more 5th class terrain on this route, as opposed to Knapsack. Plus, you don't generally have to wait in the Knapsack line, which often features very, very, slow parties.

Protection

standard rack.

Photos