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Routes in Beehive Peak

4th of July Couloir T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Steep Snow PG13
All in Moderation T M4+ Mod. Snow
Bees Knees Variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five Magics M5+
New World Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Original Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rastaman Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Worker Bee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 330 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,127 total · 25/month
Shared By: Ty Gittins on Aug 20, 2011
Admins: grk10vq

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hike to the right side of the southeast face and locate two left facing dihedrals. climb the left dihedral through a series of overhangs. route can be completed in 2 long pitches. the rock is really good on this route, and I remember a fun, aesthetic and challenging day out on this one.

pitch 1: climb 5.7 through 2 roofs. for easier climbing, don't get sucked into the first squeeze chimney (can climb the outside). gear belay on a good ledge (tat present) after about 50 m

pitch 2: climb the chimney above for a full 60 m to a gear belay. one can scramble to the top from here. aim for a small notch in the ridge line.

descend one of the two couloirs that bookend the southeast face. the eastern couloir is snow free much earlier and is quite steep and loose. Rappel twice down this couloir of good slung horns. getting off the peak is not trivial.


alpine rack required. if you do this in two 50 or 60 meter pitches, you may need a good bit of gear


Ty Gittins
Ty Gittins   bozeman
Climbed this again in July, and the 2nd pitch is likely not quite 60 m. There is considerable loose rock in the gully directly above the 2nd pitch. Aug 12, 2016

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