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Routes in Beehive Peak

4th of July Couloir T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
All in Moderation T M4+
Bees Knees Variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five Magics M5+
New World Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Original Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rastaman Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Worker Bee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,867 total, 24/month
Shared By: Kurt Prond on Aug 2, 2011
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

This is the southwest couloir. From Beehive Peak follow a faint trail toward the southeast face. Climb through boulders and/or snow(depending on the time of year)toward the left side of the main wall where there is an wide couloir going straight up. The couloir melts out late, we did it early August and it still had plenty of snow, but on low snow years it would melt out earlier. You will need crampons if there is snow, and an ice axe is recommended. Climb up the couloir toward the obvious notch. Just below the notch there is a big V-shaped chimney heading up to the right. You can rope up here or climb slowly, it is easy 5th class. From the top of the chimney there is another couple hundred feet of 4th class scrambling to the summit.

Descent is possible via either of the two couloir that flank the south east face. There are rappel slings at both, but it is possible without ropes.

Protection

Light rack, crampons, ice axe. Rope if wanting to rappel.

Photos

Ty Gittins
bozeman
Ty Gittins   bozeman
I believe this one is called the 4th of july couloir Aug 20, 2011
sqwirll
Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
It should be noted that if you continue from the notch to the couloir around the back, it's only 4th class to the top. Also, it's Beehive Peak. Aug 3, 2011