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Routes in Beehive Peak

4th of July Couloir T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
All in Moderation T M4+
Bees Knees Variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five Magics M5+
New World Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Original Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rastaman Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Worker Bee T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 550 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Pete Tapley & Chris Awe. 2004
Page Views: 1,123 total, 19/month
Shared By: jon jugenheimer on Nov 27, 2012 with updates
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

The three pitch route starts by climbing the 4th of July couloir to about 1/3 height just above the first set of black rocks. Gain the obvious left leaning gully filled with snow and possibly ice. The crux is 35 meters up the gully where a vertical step is found. Climb another 30 meters of easier terrain and belay at a tree. The second pitch climbs the snow and rock couloir finishing with two steps at 50 meters to set the 2ed belay. Climb the broken rocks and snow for another 40 meters to the summit.

Descent: Rappel or scramble down the west facing couloir to then access 4th of July Couloir. Lots of loose rock. Use cation.

Location

The route is just right of the left sykline of the peak as viewed from below. The second pitch will be an obvious landmark to see from the approch.

Protection

Standard alpine rack to #3 BD. Stubbies if ice is present. Pins were not needed.

Photos

jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
 
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
 
A picture guide of the route can be found on my blog. It was climbed by Eric and I thanksgiving weekend, 2012.
climbs2high.blogspot.com/20… Nov 27, 2012