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Routes in Kubrick's

Marcus Licinius Crassus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Captain Potsdorf S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chevalier de Balibari S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clockwork Orange S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Strangelove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Metal Jacket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gaius Claudius Glaber S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunnery Sergeant Hartman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hal 9000 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jack Torrance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lady Lyndon S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord Bullingdon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Redmond Barry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reverend Runt S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: MJM & RAMM, 7/10
Page Views: 184 total, 2/month
Shared By: MJM on Aug 4, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Begin with steep rock on good but reachy holds to C1 under the small blocky roof. Move up to C2 under the roof. After C2, clip the C3 Permadraw, and move left around the roof and a no hands rest on top of the blocky roof. Continue to the reachy C4 moving left and then up to C5. Go straight up through the upper C6/C7 crux section to the anchors.

Protection

There is a Permadraw for easy clipping at C3, courtesy of RCC .

7 clips to anchors.

Photos

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davedad
Carbondale, CO
 
davedad   Carbondale, CO
 
Did this route today. There is a new first bolt, added sometime in the last couple of months. This makes the route much more enticing to lead since there is protection through the lower section. There is currently a fixed draw on the 3rd bolt at the roof, and the 4th bolt after the roof. This route was fun, though the move around the roof is awkward. Oct 12, 2013