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Routes in Kubrick's

Marcus Licinius Crassus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Captain Potsdorf S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chevalier de Balibari S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clockwork Orange S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Strangelove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Metal Jacket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gaius Claudius Glaber S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunnery Sergeant Hartman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hal 9000 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jack Torrance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lady Lyndon S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord Bullingdon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Redmond Barry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reverend Runt S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: MJM & RAMM, 7/09
Page Views: 923 total, 12/month
Shared By: MJM on Aug 4, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Begin with blocky rock with some good holds to get to C1. Sustained climbing with ok edges, sidepulls, and pinches will move you through this 3 clip crux section with some tricky feet. Move left near C4 to a great but reachy left hand finger crack, then ascend a blocky section up and past C5. A rest section with big holds to another crimpy crux. Continue on fun, vertical climbing on great holds past C6 to C10 en-route to the anchors.

Protection

10 clips to anchors.

Photos

Andrew Hewitt
Somerville
  5.11a
Andrew Hewitt   Somerville
  5.11a
This is a great warm-up because there are only two difficult sections and it's relatively long. The rest is much easier - and still fun - climbing. Also a great candidate for your first 5.11. Aug 18, 2015
davedad
Carbondale, CO
 
davedad   Carbondale, CO
 
Fun. Long enough to be interesting and worthwhile. Go do it and enjoy the lack of polish. A bit of dust is the price you pay for no polish. Jul 8, 2014