Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Kubrick's

Marcus Licinius Crassus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Captain Potsdorf S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chevalier de Balibari S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clockwork Orange S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Strangelove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Metal Jacket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gaius Claudius Glaber S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunnery Sergeant Hartman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hal 9000 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jack Torrance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lady Lyndon S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord Bullingdon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Redmond Barry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reverend Runt S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: MJM & RAMM, 5/2013
Page Views: 129 total, 2/month
Shared By: MJM on Aug 16, 2013
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Like its neighbors Full Metal Jacket & Jack Torrance this route is still dirty and dusty in spots.

Start on beautiful, gray rock with a very large hold to smaller holds to the high first bolt. Start trending right with cruxy climbing near C2 to a mini-rail out right with some hidden incuts to clip the high C3 for the bigger holds. Clip C4 and stay right for the reachy, big, flat edges. At C5 move up to the next clip. Near C5, go up then head left to clip C6 (there is rope drag here, so a double draw or a long sling on C6 maybe helpful ) to a flat rest spot. Above the flat rest spot clip C7 and climb some dirty rock straight up past a close C8 with tricky moves and a bit of a run to the ring anchors.

Location

Kubrick's left, hike along the wall up stream/uphill past Lady Lyndon. At the top of the inclinded trail, Chevalier de Balibari is the first route. The trail is thin here please belay from the first spot on the left.

Protection

8 clips to anchors.

Photos

- No Photos -
davedad
Carbondale, CO
  5.10d
davedad   Carbondale, CO
  5.10d
Very friendly bolting! Delicate and hard to read down low. Really fun and juggy up high. Loooong stretch to the anchors. Worthwhile - it will get much better with a bit of traffic. Jul 8, 2014