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Chevalier de Balibari
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 1.8 from 32
votes
Routes in Kubrick's
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Barry Lyndon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Captain Potsdorf S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chevalier de Balibari S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Clockwork Orange S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dr. Strangelove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Road To Zion, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 39.71606, -107.69077 |
| FA: | MJM & RAMM, 5/2013 |
| Page Views: | 1,049 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | MJM on Aug 16, 2013 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Like its neighbors Full Metal Jacket & Jack Torrance this route is still dirty and dusty in spots.
Start on beautiful, gray rock with a very large hold to smaller holds to the high first bolt. Start trending right with cruxy climbing near C2 to a mini-rail out right with some hidden incuts to clip the high C3 for the bigger holds. Clip C4 and stay right for the reachy, big, flat edges. At C5 move up to the next clip. Near C5, go up then head left to clip C6 (there is rope drag here, so a double draw or a long sling on C6 maybe helpful ) to a flat rest spot. Above the flat rest spot clip C7 and climb some dirty rock straight up past a close C8 with tricky moves and a bit of a run to the ring anchors.
Location
Kubrick's left, hike along the wall up stream/uphill past Lady Lyndon.
At the top of the inclined trail, Chevalier de Balibari is the first route.
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