Type: Sport, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: Will Sharp, Jeff Hansen
Page Views: 851 total · 34/month
Shared By: Will Sharp on Jul 6, 2019
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This mega pitch is a new addition to far-left Kubrick's. Start as for Lord Bullington, climb a techy, well-bolted slab to its anchor, and then continue for another 14 bolts of fun, fairly sustained climbing. The first roof band holds the technical crux, but sustained pumpy climbing at the top may spit you off. This route is unique for Rifle featuring several crack moves, laybacking a flake, and pumpy, vertical face climbing. It is a bit of a vision quest but is well worth doing.

NOTE: a 70meter rope is required to lower to the midway anchor. An 80m rope will not reach the ground from the top, the route is a full 45m!

If you plan to leave draws up, you can lower strait off the top of Road to Zion and hit the anchor of the route to is right as your midway anchor. This anchor is fixed with steel chain and biners and is the quicker, easier option.

If cleaning draws, you will need to tram down to the anchor of Lord Bullington, and then lower from there.

Location

Approach via Kubrick's, and continue to climbers left for about 200'. The route climbs the obvious, massive, orange shield to the rim. There is a small plaque at the base.

Protection

24 draws and fixed anchors. A 70M rope is required! An alpine draw on the midway anchor really helps cut down drag.

Photos