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Routes in Kubrick's

Captain Potsdorf S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chevalier de Balibari S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clockwork Orange S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dr. Strangelove S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Metal Jacket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gaius Claudius Glaber S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gunnery Sergeant Hartman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hal 9000 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jack Torrance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lady Lyndon S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lord Bullingdon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Marcus Licinius Crassus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Redmond Barry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reverend Runt S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: MJM & RAMM, 8/2011
Page Views: 214 total · 4/month
Shared By: MJM on Dec 28, 2013
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start just right of Revered Runt.

Start with sustained climbing on not so go holds to the high C1. Cruise past C1 to C2 and a great rest at the start of C3. Move right on super, Rifle gray, slabby stone with tricky, cruxy climbing and some vertical moves to another rest. Climb straight up, and then bear right at C8 to the sharkskin face. Thin moves on the face with great stone drops you at the anchors.

Location

This is on Kubrick's Left, in between Reverend Runt & Jack Torrance.

Protection & Vitals

8 clips to anchors.

Photos

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Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
 
I thought this climb was licheny, scary, and not fun at all. Jul 9, 2014
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
This was much better than I expected. All the holds were solid, and at least when I climbed it this past weekend, it did not have all the sand runoff that the (3) 5.10s to the right had. Clean rock (kinda junky at the start, but what Rifle route isn't?), tricky crux around the 4th bolt. The anchor was difficult to clip, and I'm pretty tall. I did the route both ways by moving right and then climbed it again moving left, and neither felt that much easier with the anchor just being out of reach with the clipping holds much lower than the anchors. It's fun, it's engaging, kinda long, and you're almost guaranteed not to have anyone on it if you decide to try it. Jun 20, 2017

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