Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: a wood rat?
Page Views: 231 total · 3/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 20, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Okay, it is THE obvious feature on the east face and you just have to climb it...once. So, from below, you just wonder if that is a cubic foot of guano or not...and can you climb it without getting guano'ed?

Well, this moderate is probably the easiest on the crag, and there is probably more than a cubic foot...and it is "porcelain-ized".

Start near a cool hold on the left wall. Pass a small guano lump that is dry. Move up on largely guano-free holds. Inspect this impressive mass of guano oozing from a wood rat den. Continue up the fissure. Ignore the 2 bolts from Who's Nailin' Palin. Find a crux near the top above the third guano deposit. Rappel from 2 bolt anchor of The Buckets Stop Here.

This is probably on the lean side of a star.

Obviously, this feature may have been climbed previously. If it is your route, accept our apologies for giving it a playful name and tell us the name and other info and we'll update it.

Location

This is the obvious fissure on the east face with the landmark namesakes along its path.

Protection

The crack takes better gear than you'd suspect. Green Alien, #9 hex, #0.5-#4 Camalots.

Photos

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