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Routes in Crag of Fear

Birthday Boy TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buckets Stop Here, The S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burnin' Rubber S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Guano a Guano T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mocha T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Smokin' Joints S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tibble TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tiptoe Through The Two Lips S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unemployment Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Who's Nailin' Palin S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: TR, 35 ft
FA: Dave Rogers?
Page Views: 85 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 20, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a line that draws the eye as you look at the left end of the east face. It currently is a toprope and should probably stay that way due to the proximity to the hiking trail.

Go up the right side of the slightly overhanging face. There is a crux about 1/3 the way up. The rock is friable in spots.

There are probably at least 2 other possible lines/variation on this narrow face to the left which will probably be a bit harder.

We just gave a name to it in honor of a pet rodent. Obviously, this may have been done previously, but clearing out some modest-sized fragile flakes above muddies the waters. If you have info about this climb, please let me know, and I'll update it.

Location

It is on the narrow, slightly overhanging, south face of the Upper Crag.

Protection

This is a bit of a convoluted top rope setup. After leading Unemployment Line, you can set directionals up top on somewhat questionable rock that is improved with the redundancy. You can get a #3.5 Camalot about 20' back, #3 & #4 Camalots in a pocket on the left (below the top) about 8' back, #0.5 & #1 in a crack near the lip, a #9 hex in a slot about 10' back. A bunch of slings help.

Photos

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