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Routes in Dirty Crack Boulder

Arthritis V6+ 7A
Arthritis Sit V8 7B
Bloody Phalanges V6 7A
Dirty Crack V4-5 6B+
Hemolysis - Sit Start V8 7B
Jugular V1+ 5
Scabbers V2+ 5+
Stinger Mantis V1 5
Wizard V9-10 7C+
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Sam Hayden
Page Views: 786 total, 10/month
Shared By: freezeus on Jul 12, 2011
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Start on jug rail around the side to the left from Dirty crack, and to the left of arthritis,then reach up to a juggy ledge. Move you're feet up and feel around to the right, right below the pine tree for a crimp and bump to jugs at the top.
We cleaned several jugs we found under moss to the left of the tree...tree is no longer necessary to top out.

Location

around the left side of the dirty crack boulder, the second problem around the left just past Artritis.

Protection

one pad and a spotter

Photos

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V1
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V1
This is an awesome boulder problem. It would be a high quality v1 anywhere! Jul 22, 2015
freezeus
Pittsfield, VT
 
freezeus   Pittsfield, VT
 
Finally got it Roger!!!

Also cleaned and Sam got the traverse starting at the far left of this side of the boulder and finishing at the top out for Stinger Mantis...7 new problems this afternoon. Sep 14, 2011
freezeus
Pittsfield, VT
 
freezeus   Pittsfield, VT
 
Tried like ten times today...can't get to the jug. tried going to the intermediate crimps out to the right but that didn't work either. I either need to bump my feet up to the start hold and deadpoint or dyno from lower feet! Aug 24, 2011
The move off the rail feels committing, but the jug is incredible, Once it's dry, you should definitely try it. Aug 24, 2011
freezeus
Pittsfield, VT
 
freezeus   Pittsfield, VT
 
Another one I have to get...I always back off at the last rail just before the jugs!!! Aug 24, 2011
Climbed this again today. This will be one of the best problems at its grade in VT once the moss at the topout is cleaned so that the upper holds have a chance to dry out. Aug 23, 2011
Cool. I hope to find some time next week to get down there again. Jul 18, 2011
freezeus
Pittsfield, VT
 
freezeus   Pittsfield, VT
 
Mossy groove is cleaned and tree is no longer part of the problem Jul 17, 2011
freezeus
Pittsfield, VT
 
freezeus   Pittsfield, VT
 
Go for it...have fun...variations are welcome, expected and part of the fun of climbing! Jul 15, 2011
It's a shame that this doesn't go up the mossy groove to the left of the tree, so that you could avoid the tree altogether. Jul 15, 2011