Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Dirty Crack Boulder

Arthritis V6+ 7A
Arthritis Sit V8 7B
Bloody Phalanges V6 7A
Dirty Crack V4-5 6B+
Hemolysis - Sit Start V8 7B
Jugular V1+ 5
Scabbers V2+ 5+
Stinger Mantis V1 5
Wizard V9-10 7C+
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Sam Hayden
Page Views: 527 total · 6/month
Shared By: freezeus on Jul 12, 2011
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start on two quarter-pad crimps just around the left side from Dirty Crack- first problem you come to, from the quarter-pad crimps go with you're left hand up to a intermediate side-pull and get high feet, then with you're right hand get a good side-pull just to the right of the left-hand side-pull, then shoot you're right hand up to a horrible little tiny tenth-pad crimp on a sloper and hold on for dear life while you get a hand up to a crimp to the left of the tenth-pad crimp, get a foot up to the right hand side-pull and top-out on jugs.

Location

just around the left corner/arete from dirty crack

Protection

one pad and a spotter

Photos

Andy McMillan
Rutland, VT
Andy McMillan   Rutland, VT
i must say the natural line pulled me left at the top...maybe v2/3? Jul 17, 2011
freezeus
Pittsfield, VT
 
freezeus   Pittsfield, VT
 
Hey Andy - did you start on the two 1/4 pad crimps? If you start on the two side pull rails it goes significantly easier than Sam's rating and if you trend left it goes easier. Jul 19, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V5
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V5
This and 'Dirty Crack' are two classics for the area, this has great movement with good holds. I think the grade of v6+ is a little high for me it felt more like v5, either way it is an awesome problem that everyone should climb.

The discussion above makes it sound contrived but it is an obvious line with obvious starting holds in the squat position to an obvious finish. Great line. Jul 22, 2015

More About Arthritis

Printer-Friendly