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Routes in Dirty Crack Boulder

Arthritis V6+ 7A
Arthritis Sit V8 7B
Bloody Phalanges V6 7A
Dirty Crack V4-5 6B+
Hemolysis - Sit Start V8 7B
Jugular V1+ 5
Scabbers V2+ 5+
Stinger Mantis V1 5
Wizard V9-10 7C+
Type: Boulder, 11 ft
FA: Sam Hayden
Page Views: 650 total, 8/month
Shared By: freezeus on Jul 12, 2011
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Stand Start 6 feet left of stinger mantis, right hand on sharp 1/4 pad crimp, left hand on 2-3 finger half pad sloper crimp, get feet on, bump left hand to 1/2 pad two finger and thumb pinch, right hand to bad sloper, get feet up and go for jugs straight above right hand then top out on jugs.

Location

left of Stinger Mantis on side of Dirty Crack Boulder

Protection

pad and spotter

Photos

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matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V4-
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V4-
Yeah if you couldn't use the large foot rail for the first couple moves it would feel way harder for sure!!! I also thought the move going out left looked hard. I would be interested to see what you guys think with the beta I used. Jul 28, 2015
freezeus
Pittsfield, VT
 
freezeus   Pittsfield, VT
 
Thanks for the feedback Matt - I think the way Sam originally did it - when he was 18" shorter was definitely in the hard V6 range. Even now trying to do it with his original beta is hard - We'll have to give it a go with your beta. Jul 28, 2015
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V4-
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V4-
This is a fun boulder problem although I think it is much easier than the suggested grade, this might be because I am tall.

My beta was also a little different than the beta in the video. I started as Sam started but instead of moving left, I skipped the move out and left and I immediately went right hand out to the sloper, moved my left food up to a good edge and reached for the jug above. For me it felt v3/4 for a short climber I think it would be hard v4. Jul 22, 2015
freezeus
Pittsfield, VT
 
freezeus   Pittsfield, VT
 
Thanks for the comments...we've cleaned some stuff left of bp and I think there would be a fun easy traverse starting at the far left and traversing using the good holds on top all he way to just before the tree Jul 15, 2011
Has anything been done to the left of this? It looks like a few holds have been cleaned, and the side pull immediately left of BP looks to be a part of something. Jul 15, 2011