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Routes in Dirty Crack Boulder

Arthritis V6+ 7A
Arthritis Sit V8 7B
Bloody Phalanges V6 7A
Dirty Crack V4-5 6B+
Hemolysis - Sit Start V8 7B
Jugular V1+ 5
Scabbers V2+ 5+
Stinger Mantis V1 5
Wizard V9-10 7C+
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Mazie Hayden
Page Views: 169 total, 3/month
Shared By: freezeus on Jul 3, 2012
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

3 ft left of Bloody Phalanges, stand with left hand on flake edge and right hand on third hold of Bloody phalanges, up left to small jug then out right to Bloody phalanges jugs to top. There could be a sit to this..probably V5-7

Location

3 ft left of bloody phalanges on dirty crack boulder

Protection

pad

Photos

- No Photos -
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V2
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V2
This climbed would be a lot better with a little cleaning. A fun short climb. Jul 22, 2015
freezeus
Pittsfield, VT
 
freezeus   Pittsfield, VT
 
Sure Roger...how's the shoulder healing up?

I'll post a pic tonight but it starts about 8ft left of stinger mantis on a decent left hand sidepull flake, right hand on a nasty little crimp, get feet up off the starting ledge on bad small edges then bump right or left to a small pocket and work right into the finishing jug on bloody phalanges and top out.

Sam added a sit start this saturday and finished to the left which is a little nicer line though slightly harder. Jul 17, 2012
Can you post a picture with this problem? The holds you mention are very specific. I did something on this face last year, but would like to try this new variation. Jul 3, 2012