Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The First Corridor

... S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Acme Top Rope Wall S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Agua Negro S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Before The Storm T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Betty Does Brownsville S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bilbo Surfs Galveston S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Booty Route, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brand X Top Rope Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hook 'em Horns S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leather & Lace S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Middle Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pain at the Pump S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pick Pocket T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pocket Change S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rise and Shine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sophie's Choice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spider's Line S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,803 total · 33/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Jul 10, 2011 with updates from mrjazzitup
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

"Middle Earth" begins downhill (left) of "Agua Negro" near the large bush/tree the corridor. Start climbing just right of and below a huge coarse grained block or inclusion. Two bolts lead past the inclusion to a lower angled apron. The 2nd bolt is awkward to clip. Continue up as the wall steepens to a headwall below a large depression, clip the bolt, and climb into the depression. Move left from the depression around the left side of a very large block to a chain anchor with two bolts. Continue up the steep upper headwall on pockets and knobs past 5 more bolts. While it is possible to link the climb as one long pitch it maybe necessary to use long runners down low or back clean to reduce rope drag. As of July 2014 there are chains with screw links in order to rappel the route in two rappels with a 60 meter rope.

Location

This route is on the east wall of the corridor and originates near the large bush, below a huge light colored cobble, 40 feet left (north) of "Aqua Negro."

Protection

P1 - 9 bolts & 2-bolt anchor with chain, P2 - 5 bolts, shares an anchor with "Tethys," 3 bolts with chains.
steple  
This route is listed as trad, but according to the description it's a sport climb. Jul 26, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
 
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
 
The bolts are more widely spaced than most "sport" routes and might be considered run out. "Picante" (5.12) at Suicide Rock is listed as "trad" by Darrell Hensel, yet it is a sporty face, protected by 5 bolts. In fact, most of the face routes at Suicide Rock and Joshua Tree are classified as trad. If you're expecting closely spaced bolts at Texas Canyon you may be in over your head. All you need is draws. The bolts on P1 have been upgraded. 17 old drilled holes (old bolts?) were filled and patched. Sep 9, 2011
Guy Keesee
Moorpark, CA
Guy Keesee   Moorpark, CA
""While this route is fairly new, no information is available regarding the details of the FA or its original name.


So Gentle Ben, How nice of you to rate it and name it for all of US. Thank You for your service. Nov 25, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
 
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
 
Always eager to help. Certainly, attaching a name and a rating to the route helps others identify it and might save someone from an unfortunate accident or epic. Withholding the name and rating benefits few and may put inexperienced climbers in jeopardy. As Spider Savage has indicated throughout this site, if you have some insight regarding the name, rating, FA party, date, etc. that you or anyone else would like to share...please do. Nov 28, 2011
NancyM Mastracchio
Acton, California
NancyM Mastracchio   Acton, California
Thanks for the beta, Ben. I had wanted to lead this one, but after reading the info here I'm going to toprope a few more times to get familiar with the bolt placment. As a Lord of the Rings fan, I don't mind that you named it Middle Earth :) Until I learn to drill and folt my own routes, I'm happy to have the names and beta on the existing ones! Jun 22, 2013
BAd
  5.9
BAd  
  5.9
This is a fun, full pitch and not too hard. Whenever things get a little sketchy, try a little move to the left. Persist and you'll get to a good stance. Fun!

Looks like I did Pocket Change. Doh! Middle Earth is to the left. I've yet to do it. Dec 7, 2013
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
 
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
 
BAd.....you got it right, "Middle Earth" on the left and "Pick Pocket" on the right.
You're right on regarding the beta as well. When in doubt, especially at each of the large inclusions or blocks, go left. Apr 14, 2014
BAd
  5.9
BAd  
  5.9
Thanks, Ben. Have since done ME a couple of times. All these long routes in the Canyon are great. ME is a little harder than Pick Pocket. 5.9 fer sure.

BAd Jan 25, 2017
jt512    
Whether this is a sport or trad route is in dispute. A route that is protected entirely by bolts may be a trad route if the bolts were placed on lead. Does anyone have any idea whether the original bolts (I understand some were replaced) were placed on lead or on rappel? If so, please comment here or shoot me an email. Thanks.

Edit: Have reclassified as sport, based on info that the original bolts were likely placed on rappel. May 16, 2017
ClimbingNewb
Canyon Country
 
ClimbingNewb   Canyon Country
 
FYI, Left Hanger on P1 is a spinner.

Fun climb. May 30, 2017

More About Middle Earth

Printer-Friendly