Type: Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,521 total · 34/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Jul 10, 2011 with improvements by mrjazzitup
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

"Middle Earth" begins downhill (left) of "Agua Negro" near the large bush/tree the corridor. Start climbing just right of and below a huge coarse grained block or inclusion. Two bolts lead past the inclusion to a lower angled apron. The 2nd bolt is awkward to clip. Continue up as the wall steepens to a headwall below a large depression, clip the bolt, and climb into the depression. Move left from the depression around the left side of a very large block to a chain anchor with two bolts. Continue up the steep upper headwall on pockets and knobs past 5 more bolts. While it is possible to link the climb as one long pitch it maybe necessary to use long runners down low or back clean to reduce rope drag. As of July 2014 there are chains with screw links in order to rappel the route in two rappels with a 60 meter rope.

Location

This route is on the east wall of the corridor and originates near the large bush, below a huge light colored cobble, 40 feet left (north) of "Aqua Negro."

Protection

P1 - 9 bolts & 2-bolt anchor with chain, P2 - 5 bolts, shares an anchor with "Tethys," 3 bolts with chains.

Photos