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Routes in The Canyon

Acme Top Rope Wall S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Agua Negro S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Before The Storm T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Betty Does Brownsville S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bilbo Surfs Galveston S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Booty Route, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Brand X Top Rope Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hook 'em Horns S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leather & Lace S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Middle Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pain at the Pump S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pocket Change S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rise and Shine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rocket Man T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sophie's Choice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spider's Line S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jeffrey Thomas & Rex Piper
Page Views: 979 total, 16/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Nov 10, 2012
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The Booty Route climbs pockets, scoops, and edges on the steep west wall of The Canyon/east wall of The Hatchery. The route passes a bulge or small roof feature at mid-height. Surmounting the bulge directly is 5.11a, while moving left on juggy features is 5.10b. Above the bulge the angle decreases and the route follows the knobby slab to chains below a large cobble/block on the arĂȘte.

Location

After entering the south end of The Canyon, and beyond the gap between The Egg and The Hatchery, this route is the 2nd line of bolts, on the left (west). It is just right of the spindly 12 feet tree. Identified by the bulge or small roof feature 35' up the wall.

Protection

8 bolts & a two bolt anchor with chains.
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
 
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
 
Bolts and anchor upgraded Sunday, January 31, 2016. Feb 7, 2016
Hi, yesterday 12/12/15 my friend and I were climbing this route when he had a bad fall and injured himself. He had to be evacuated and is at the hospital recuperating. We left four quickdraws on this route. If you find them and retrieve them, if you can contact me, that would be great

Thank you Dec 13, 2015
Pretty fun route although the crux part is bolted rather weird. The rough either falls off to the right pretty far on some mono digit pockets that cause a large swing or it goes far to the left on some pretty easy jug stuff which is still a big swing. Aug 23, 2013
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
 
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
 
There is a 4th class scramble (marked as 5.5 in Mayr's guide), from the notch between The Egg and the Hatchery, that is much easier than the approach you describe. There are no corresponding bolts on The Egg to suggest that there was ever a high line established. Bill Leventhal, et al. did attain the summit via a line tossed over the top, which may explain the 4 bolts, and I have made the Tyrolean a couple times. Apr 30, 2013
Pretty neat, did it at the end of the day Saturday. This is actually the second line of bolts on that side of the canyon the first line is something that felt 5.7ish. If you're OK making a 40 or so foot run (basically solo) you can get to the anchors for this (and the other climbs) up some 5.easy above the top of that first route on the left.

Also, those 4 bolts no rings look like highline bolts rigged to go to the egg, haven't been to the top of the egg to see if there's any matching so I don't really know, anyone know?

Edit: "5.7ish" route turns out to be Sophie's Choice 5.9...hahah whoops Apr 29, 2013
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
 
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
 
This is an excellent route, with a committing crux. There are two sets of anchors on the summit near the top of this route. To the right is a set of chains that allow a rappel into The Canyon with a 60 meter rope, and four bolts on the high point to the west. It is also possible to down climb to the south into the gap between The Egg and The Jukebox. Nov 11, 2012