PRINT: Rock Climb Middle Earth, Los Angeles Basin

Middle Earth

5.9, Sport, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.7 from 34 votes
FA: unknown
California > Los Angeles Basin > Angeles Nationa… > Texas Canyon > First Corridor

Access Issue: 1. RAIN & WET ROCK 2. DANGER OF EROSION Details

1. Texas Canyon is conglomerate that is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp, then do not climb.

2. The south end of the First Corridor is in danger of collapsing at the base of Sophie’s Choice. A dam of rocks and soil has been built to divert water away from the eroding soil underneath these huge boulders. Please help keep this system in place until a more permanent solution is implemented.

Description

"Middle Earth" begins downhill (left) of "Agua Negro" near the large bush/tree the corridor. Start climbing just right of and below a huge coarse grained block or inclusion. Two bolts lead past the inclusion to a lower angled apron. Continue up as the wall steepens to a headwall below a large depression, clip the bolt, and climb into the depression. Move left from the depression around the left side of a very large block to a Fixe ring anchor with two bolts. A second pitch climbs the steep upper headwall on pockets and knobs past five more bolts. While it is possible to link the climb as one long pitch it maybe necessary to use long runners down low or back clean to reduce rope drag. As of July 2014 there are anchors equipped in order to rappel the route in two rappels with a 60 meter rope.

Location

This route is on the east wall of the corridor and originates near the large bush, below a huge light colored cobble, 40 feet left (north) of "Aqua Negro."

Protection

P1 - 9 bolts & 2-bolt anchor with chains.

P2 - 5 bolts, shares an anchor with "Tethys," 1/2" bolts with chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The new P2 anchor shared by Middle Earth & Pick A Pocket.

A recently replaced bolt and hanger from "Middle Earth." Many of the hangers were spinners and the bolts wouldn't tighten down properly. The gnarled head testifies to past attempts to tighten the b…

This old circa 1990s P2 anchor shared with Tethys is now history. The new P2 anchor has 1/2" bolts and sturdy chains.

This old P1 anchor is history. Replaced with Fixe rings.

Climber in black, on "Middle Earth." the climber in the foreground, is on "Pick Pocket."

Upon reflection, I think this is probably Pocket Change. Middle Earth would be the next route to the left. 5.8+ sounds about right.

A climber rappelling down the line of "Middle Earth."

Climber on the steep upper headwall of "Middle Earth," in The Canyon.<br>
Photo by Justthemaid<br>
Submitted to MP by Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain.

Climber on the steep upper headwall of "Middle Earth," in The Canyon. Photo by Justthemaid Submitted to MP by Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

steple

This route is listed as trad, but according to the description it's a sport climb. Jul 26, 2011

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA

5.9+

The bolts are more widely spaced than most "sport" routes and might be considered run out. "Picante" (5.12) at Suicide Rock is listed as "trad" by Darrell Hensel, yet it is a sporty face, protected by 5 bolts. In fact, most of the face routes at Suicide Rock and Joshua Tree are classified as trad. If you're expecting closely spaced bolts at Texas Canyon you may be in over your head. All you need is draws. The bolts on P1 have been upgraded. 17 old drilled holes (old bolts?) were filled and patched. Sep 9, 2011

Guy Keesee
Moorpark, CA

""While this route is fairly new, no information is available regarding the details of the FA or its original name.

So Gentle Ben, How nice of you to rate it and name it for all of US. Thank You for your service. Nov 25, 2011

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA

5.9+

Always eager to help. Certainly, attaching a name and a rating to the route helps others identify it and might save someone from an unfortunate accident or epic. Withholding the name and rating benefits few and may put inexperienced climbers in jeopardy. As Spider Savage has indicated throughout this site, if you have some insight regarding the name, rating, FA party, date, etc. that you or anyone else would like to share...please do. Nov 28, 2011

Nancy Mastracchio
Acton, CA

Thanks for the beta, Ben. I had wanted to lead this one, but after reading the info here I'm going to toprope a few more times to get familiar with the bolt placment. As a Lord of the Rings fan, I don't mind that you named it Middle Earth :) Until I learn to drill and folt my own routes, I'm happy to have the names and beta on the existing ones! Jun 22, 2013

BAd

5.9

This is a fun, full pitch and not too hard. Whenever things get a little sketchy, try a little move to the left. Persist and you'll get to a good stance. Fun!

Looks like I did Pocket Change. Doh! Middle Earth is to the left. I've yet to do it. Dec 7, 2013

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA

5.9+

BAd.....you got it right, "Middle Earth" on the left and "Pick A Pocket" on the right.
You're right on regarding the beta as well. When in doubt, especially at each of the large inclusions or blocks, go left. Apr 14, 2014

BAd

5.9

Thanks, Ben. Have since done ME a couple of times. All these long routes in the Canyon are great. ME is a little harder than Pick Pocket. 5.9 fer sure.

BAd Jan 25, 2017

jt512

Whether this is a sport or trad route is in dispute. A route that is protected entirely by bolts may be a trad route if the bolts were placed on lead. Does anyone have any idea whether the original bolts (I understand some were replaced) were placed on lead or on rappel? If so, please comment here or shoot me an email. Thanks.

Edit: Have reclassified as sport, based on info that the original bolts were likely placed on rappel. May 16, 2017

Sean Kirtley
Utah

FYI, Left Hanger on P1 is a spinner.

Fun climb. May 30, 2017

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA

5.9+

Anchor with old sketchy chains and spinner on the P1 anchor replaced with a much cleaner Fixe Rings anchor.
First three bolts, which were 3/8" spinners, upgraded to 1/2." Nov 4, 2018

Dustin Stephens

5.8+

Really enjoyed this route in one pitch to the top. Many thanks for the new anchor Ben, looks great! May 16, 2023

Michael Smalley
Santa Clarita, CA

5.9

Excellent, sustained, and sometimes airy 5.9 climbing when done in one long pitch! This has quickly become my favorite warm-up climb in the First Corridor. A 70m + rope stretch + cleaning some draws on the way down, will just barely allow you to lower from the top back to the ground. Tie a knot in the end of your rope! Jan 2, 2024