Good Advice You Just Didn't Take
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9637, -105.289 |
| FA: | Micah Isaac & T. Bubb, 6/26/11 |
| Page Views: | 946 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 29, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This route was named because on the solo F.A. attempt, Tony got up into a move he didn't like solo and didn't do it, soloing back down and deciding to wait for a rope of a cleaning brush. A few weeks later, he brought Micah up and Tony offered Micah his choice of leads - and Micah picked this one. So, now who can guess what musician Micah had in mind that day?
This route climbs up from just right of the 10' pine growing at the base and then fights to the right to establish the climber in the flake and crack to the left of the top of the tree (crux #1). From there, a few mellow moves lead up to a reachy slab move (second crux) to get established on larger holds again. Climb up the slab and over the top on good holds but increasingly above gear to a belay.
To descend, head up and right for a ways and then down into a chimney/slot system that will deposit you on the ground West of the start a ways.



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