Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|FA:||T. Bubb, Micah Salazar, 6/28/11|
|Page Views:||326 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jul 1, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
Climb up into the acute dihedral, using awkward stems and crack moves to get up to a the first good stance and a fist-sized cam placement. Get gear in and make a few more moves to reach OW sized gear, and then a few more to get up to the chockstone. Only a midget is going to be able to fit into the chimney, so climb it to the outside of the chockstone. A solid medium nut was placed behind the chockstone on the FA. If this sounds unappetizing, consider taking tube chocks or run it out to up and over the chock before placing good gear (thin hands-sized, if memory serves me well), and then climb sideways onto the ramp above and to the West. Belay at a stance up the ramp to the west.
To descend, climb West and scramble down a low angle face into the "slot-canyon" and then navigate out West and then North to re-emerge at the base of the 3rd Advisor.
Down below this the Canyon Area's Buttress ends and there is a second entrance to the chimney that is in a deep acute corner. The climb is further distinguished by a solid 2-foot chockstone wedged 8-10 meters up in it.
One more landmark... an exceptionally large live pine with a strangely, bulbous trunk lies down 5 meters East of the base of this route, and near the base of a somewhat 'mossy' 5.7+ fingers-to-hand crack.