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Routes in Third Advisor

East Face T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Everybody Has An Opinion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Advice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Good Advice T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Good Advice You Just Didn't Take T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sage Advice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Some Advice Is Hard to Follow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Supposed Former Grade Inflation Junkie T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Surprisingly Good Advice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsolicited Advice T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: T. Bubb & Micah I, 6/26/11
Page Views: 170 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 29, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a longer climb via the nature of the slanting cracks, and a fairly good climb at that. The lower section is interesting and mellow, and the upper section changes the character of the climb and provides a crux, albeit only 5.8.

Start up into the wide right-leaning crack and follow this for a brief section of wide climbing. A #5 Camalot would work here, but if you don't have one the climbing is not difficult and smaller placements are available shortly. Continue up and right as the wide crack splits into a smaller crack and an upward facing flake. Continue onward on more moderate terrain, heading up and right on a continuous crack system to intercept a short but striking, left-leaning, left-facing, red dihedral. Find the brief sections of the crack in this corner where it is not flaring for both good gear and good locks and execute crux moves to finish this section of rock to the top.

Location

This climb is the 3rd climb down and left from the right-most routes on the 3rd Advisor. This is 40 feet down and left from the Northwest-most point of rock at the summit. The climb starts in the striking and obvious right-facing, right-leaning, wide crack/undercling and ascends this up and right for a good distance to reach the obvious left-facing left-leaning hanging dihedral at the top of the cliff, which supplies the crux.

Protection

Protection from fingers to fist with optional BIG cams to protecting the wide diagonal crack down low. Without the wider gear, the rating would be PG/PG-13 on moderate territory (?5.6?).

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