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Routes in Third Advisor

East Face T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Everybody Has An Opinion T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Advice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Good Advice T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Good Advice You Just Didn't Take T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Sage Advice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Some Advice Is Hard to Follow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Supposed Former Grade Inflation Junkie T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Surprisingly Good Advice T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsolicited Advice T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Micah Issac, T. Bubb, 6/26/11
Page Views: 559 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 27, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is a good route with a great crux and some surprising holds. This is the best route on the Third Advisor.

Climb up the left-leaning, finger-to-hand sized cracks and offsets past a hard move to get off the ground, and onto a small ledge. Place gear from the first ledge and pass a few small clumps of grass up and left into moderate climbing. Head up into the crack as it heads up into the pinched block at the bulge/roof. Place good gear (2" cam) before hitting the pinched block, then go up and into the pinched block on good holds to pull the surprising crux. Top out and belay the second from gear (3-4" cams a few meters back might be the best belay).

To descend, scramble West at the rock's Northern edge down a very shallow gully to the ground - 3rd class.

Location [Suggest Change]

This route is on the upper Northwest end of the Third Advisor, following a left-leaning crack through the bulging roof at the rock's Northern-most point, just below the summit.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A standard light rack to 3". The crux gear is 1.5-2" cams.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Someone should go get on this thing and check it out - verify grade, etc.... Apr 6, 2012

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