Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: Guy Gary, Roger Peck '78
Page Views: 1,195 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jonathon French on Jun 28, 2011 with improvements by Greg Retkowski
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This is the arĂȘte between Cake Walk and Baby Dehedral. This route is a weird one with sloapers and pinchers. Resist the urge to hug the whole rock, it'll stalemate ya.

Location

The arĂȘte between Cake Walk and Baby Dehedral

Protection

Top rope only, theres a bolt mid-route, but its rusted and useless.
Two anchor bolts with links on top.

Photos

allquieton
Cheyenne, Wyoming
 
allquieton   Cheyenne, Wyoming
 
Anyone familiar with Indecision and Digitalis? Do they share any holds? I posted a photo placing these two routes, but it's a lot of guesswork. If you have better information, let me know. Jun 29, 2011
ChrisL  
I can see these routes being distinguished based on the initial moves, but I (and my climbing partners) have only managed to do the arete moves on the left-hand side. Perhaps the routes merge halfway up? Jul 16, 2011
allquieton
Cheyenne, Wyoming
 
allquieton   Cheyenne, Wyoming
 
The Kennedy/Hubbard guide lists Indecision as 5.9 and Digitalis as 10a.

Messier lists Indecision as 10b and Digitalis as 5.9.

I was climbing around on these this morning. I don't see any way to stay right of the arete for the whole climb. So I'm thinking Digitalis must head left at some point--probably like you say, at the halfway point.

The only way I could see Indecision being as hard as 10b is if all holds right of the arete are off. Which I tried unsuccessfully, but it seems like it would go. The single (broken) bolt is pretty far left, so I wonder if this was the intent.

I'm inclined to think that Digitalis is just an alternate start for Indecision, and that holds on both sides of the arete are fair game for both climbs. They both seem about 5.9 to me. But if anyone knows more about these two climbs feel free to chime in. Jul 20, 2011