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Routes in Limbo Area

Abacab TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apostrophe T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aqualunge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
As the Crow Flies S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Batso's Resurrection TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beke's Wild Ride T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cake Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Craig's Chimney TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Craig's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crow Boulder S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deviate Behavior S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Digitalis TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Trouble S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Escape From The Underworld S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Facial Tissue TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
History Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indecision TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Kathy's Memorial T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Flies TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mighty Monger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mission Obscurity T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Ticket TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Punk Rock Show TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Revision TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rift, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standard Deviation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top of the Pops. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tower, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turkey Chute T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vawter's Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Volume I TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: Guy Gary, Roger Peck '78
Page Views: 901 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jonathon French on Jun 28, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This is the arĂȘte between Cake Walk and Baby Dehedral. This route is a weird one with sloapers and pinchers. Resist the urge to hug the whole rock, it'll stalemate ya.

Location

The arĂȘte between Cake Walk and Baby Dehedral

Protection

Top rope only, theres a bolt, but its rusted and useless.

Photos

allquieton
Cheyenne, Wyoming
 
allquieton   Cheyenne, Wyoming
 
The Kennedy/Hubbard guide lists Indecision as 5.9 and Digitalis as 10a.

Messier lists Indecision as 10b and Digitalis as 5.9.

I was climbing around on these this morning. I don't see any way to stay right of the arete for the whole climb. So I'm thinking Digitalis must head left at some point--probably like you say, at the halfway point.

The only way I could see Indecision being as hard as 10b is if all holds right of the arete are off. Which I tried unsuccessfully, but it seems like it would go. The single (broken) bolt is pretty far left, so I wonder if this was the intent.

I'm inclined to think that Digitalis is just an alternate start for Indecision, and that holds on both sides of the arete are fair game for both climbs. They both seem about 5.9 to me. But if anyone knows more about these two climbs feel free to chime in. Jul 20, 2011
ChrisL  
I can see these routes being distinguished based on the initial moves, but I (and my climbing partners) have only managed to do the arete moves on the left-hand side. Perhaps the routes merge halfway up? Jul 16, 2011
allquieton
Cheyenne, Wyoming
 
allquieton   Cheyenne, Wyoming
 
Anyone familiar with Indecision and Digitalis? Do they share any holds? I posted a photo placing these two routes, but it's a lot of guesswork. If you have better information, let me know. Jun 29, 2011