Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: FTR: Jim Neff & Ed George 1979 FL: Art Messier 1999
Page Views: 3,703 total · 36/month
Shared By: Kyle Wills on Jul 9, 2010
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details


"Balancy and steep face climbing. Left or right finish option from the 3rd bolt. lLeft finish is 5.10a, right finish is 5.9"- taken from Art Messier


On the Deviation Wall with Abacab, Back to Basics, Deviate Behavior, and Kathy's Memorial.


4 bolts


are the spinning bolts safe to top rope off of? Dec 11, 2012
Mountain View, CA
dholte   Mountain View, CA
The spinning bolts are at the top of Standard Deviation, I didn't use them, but they are probably ok. I used the bolts for Deviate Behavior, just be aware you'll take a small swing if you fall near the bottom. Feb 17, 2013
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
The terrible landing and committing moves down low make for one intimidating lead! Felt stiff for .10b. Jun 16, 2013
Mannamedstan Smith
Carpinteria, CA
Mannamedstan Smith   Carpinteria, CA
Stiff for a 10b lead, I agree, especially the move getting to the center bolt shared with Deviate Behavior. Oct 9, 2013
BJ Cook
San Diego, California
BJ Cook   San Diego, California
I echo the sentiment of the group. 5.10b sounds too low. This was as difficult as some 5.11s up at El Cajon mountain. Apr 6, 2015
Its all there, climb goes at 10b/c just sustained the whole way... Loose jug just over the roof on the left side finish (1 foot below the bolt and slightly left) Feb 10, 2016
J Sundstrom
San Diego, CA
J Sundstrom   San Diego, CA
Having a .75 at the horizontal crack at the left finish is helpful to avoid a nasty fall getting to the last bolt.

[EDIT]: I noticed the other day in the 2nd edition of Kennedy and Hubbard's guide, this gets .10d. So maybe it is sandbagged after all... Mar 12, 2016
Scotty Dusek
San Diego
Scotty Dusek   San Diego
Great crimps and balance moves. Not harder than 5.10b but it helps to be tall. I start directly under the first bolt, if you stray left to start it is easier but less fun. The crux is above the second bolt and well protected, a fall before that could be ugly. If doing the left variation (more fun) bring a .75 or 1 Camalot as it is quite runout by the time you reach the 4th bolt. The jugs above the horizontal crack (left variation) are loose so be careful cranking on them too hard. Anchor bolts spin and are a bit rusty but seem fine top-roping.

It is a committing lead that should only be attempted by solid leaders at the grade. Try to stay true to the route, wandering to either side yields easier ground. Jul 12, 2016
Rich Welker
Riverside, CA
Rich Welker   Riverside, CA
Definitely harder than a 10b. Especially compared to the 10b to right (monkey dance).
And i agree with SD guidebook 10d, sounds about right. Jul 26, 2017
Michael Megna
Michael Megna  
Maybe a bit harder than 10b. Feels harder than Monkey Dance. Anchor bolts spin quite a bit and are missing rap rings or chains. A little sketch to rap off the hangers for cleaning. Fun committing climb though. Apr 24, 2018