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Routes in Limbo Area

Abacab TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apostrophe T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aqualunge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
As the Crow Flies S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Batso's Resurrection TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beke's Wild Ride T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cake Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Craig's Chimney TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Craig's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crow Boulder S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deviate Behavior S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Digitalis TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Trouble S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Escape From The Underworld S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Facial Tissue TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
History Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indecision TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Kathy's Memorial T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Flies TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mighty Monger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mission Obscurity T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Ticket TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Punk Rock Show TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Revision TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rift, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standard Deviation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top of the Pops. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tower, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turkey Chute T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vawter's Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Volume I TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: FTR: Jim Neff & Ed George 1979 FL: Art Messier 1999
Page Views: 3,241 total, 36/month
Shared By: Kyle Wills on Jul 9, 2010
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

"Balancy and steep face climbing. Left or right finish option from the 3rd bolt. lLeft finish is 5.10a, right finish is 5.9"- taken from Art Messier

Location

On the Deviation Wall with Abacab, Back to Basics, Deviate Behavior, and Kathy's Memorial.

Protection

4 bolts
Rich Welker
Riverside, CA
  5.10d
Rich Welker   Riverside, CA
  5.10d
Definitely harder than a 10b. Especially compared to the 10b to right (monkey dance).
And i agree with SD guidebook 10d, sounds about right. Jul 26, 2017
Scotty Dusek
San Diego
  5.10b
Scotty Dusek   San Diego
  5.10b
Great crimps and balance moves. Not harder than 5.10b but it helps to be tall. I start directly under the first bolt, if you stray left to start it is easier but less fun. The crux is above the second bolt and well protected, a fall before that could be ugly. If doing the left variation (more fun) bring a .75 or 1 Camalot as it is quite runout by the time you reach the 4th bolt. The jugs above the horizontal crack (left variation) are loose so be careful cranking on them too hard. Anchor bolts spin and are a bit rusty but seem fine top-roping.

It is a committing lead that should only be attempted by solid leaders at the grade. Try to stay true to the route, wandering to either side yields easier ground. Jul 12, 2016
J Sundstrom
San Diego, CA
  5.10b
J Sundstrom   San Diego, CA
  5.10b
Having a .75 at the horizontal crack at the left finish is helpful to avoid a nasty fall getting to the last bolt.

[EDIT]: I noticed the other day in the 2nd edition of Kennedy and Hubbard's guide, this gets .10d. So maybe it is sandbagged after all... Mar 12, 2016
Hand.jammin  
 
Its all there, climb goes at 10b/c just sustained the whole way... Loose jug just over the roof on the left side finish (1 foot below the bolt and slightly left) Feb 10, 2016
BJ Cook
San Diego, California
 
BJ Cook   San Diego, California
 
I echo the sentiment of the group. 5.10b sounds too low. This was as difficult as some 5.11s up at El Cajon mountain. Apr 6, 2015
Mannamedstan Smith
Carpinteria, CA
Mannamedstan Smith   Carpinteria, CA
Stiff for a 10b lead, I agree, especially the move getting to the center bolt shared with Deviate Behavior. Oct 9, 2013
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
 
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
 
The terrible landing and committing moves down low make for one intimidating lead! Felt stiff for .10b. Jun 16, 2013
dholte
South San Francisco, CA
dholte   South San Francisco, CA
The spinning bolts are at the top of Standard Deviation, I didn't use them, but they are probably ok. I used the bolts for Deviate Behavior, just be aware you'll take a small swing if you fall near the bottom. Feb 17, 2013
are the spinning bolts safe to top rope off of? Dec 11, 2012