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Routes in Limbo Area

Abacab TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apostrophe T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aqualunge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
As the Crow Flies S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Batso's Resurrection TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beke's Wild Ride T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cake Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Craig's Chimney TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Craig's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crow Boulder S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deviate Behavior S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Digitalis TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Trouble S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Escape From The Underworld S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Facial Tissue TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
History Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indecision TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Kathy's Memorial T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Flies TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mighty Monger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mission Obscurity T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Ticket TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Punk Rock Show TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Revision TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rift, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standard Deviation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top of the Pops. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tower, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turkey Chute T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vawter's Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Volume I TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Unknown Pre-1983
Page Views: 2,166 total, 23/month
Shared By: Kyle Wills on Mar 29, 2010
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This "classic" wide crack/offwidth is listed as 5.6 in both the county guide and the online PDF. My thoughts differ but I am interested in what others have to say.

Location

Most obvious offwidth crack on the Standard Deviation wall. Right of Kathy's Memorial.

Protection

You would need some WIDE stuff. Bolt Anchor at top
MariaZ
  5.8+
MariaZ  
  5.8+
I led this one today with BD #4, and a #5. I put a 0.4 in the block with an X on it because it didn't shift under my light weight, but it shifted under my follower's.

Deceptively scary. I think the rating should be bumped up a little (to 5.8+) since the crack overhangs just a tad. Sep 25, 2017
steverett
San Diego, CA
  5.8-
steverett   San Diego, CA
  5.8-
I arm-barred up with my right side in the crack, felt like 5.8 to me. However my partner used some liebacks at the crux, seemed to go easier for him. Mar 30, 2016
PaoloQ
Flagstaff, Arizona
PaoloQ   Flagstaff, Arizona
Climbed this route on TR solo. 5.7 grade is accurate in my opinion. Went left side in with very secure knee jams and slippery hand/fist stacks. Short but very sweet! #5 C4 (new style) protects the lower section quite well. Good route to learn offwidth as there is a few footholds that make getting established in the crack relatively ;) easy. Jun 13, 2015
saltlick  
 
With the right combo of hand-stacking and thigh-jamming one can more easily ascend to the point where the heel-toe becomes viable. Chickenwinging definitely makes B to B feel a couple of grades harder! Dec 20, 2012
Brad W
San Diego
Brad W   San Diego
Damn this feels hard for the grade. Really need to work on my OW technique. Too big for footjams, too small for heel-toe. Good armbar/chickenwing practice. No cheat holds on the inside, and it's dirty as hell.

Rock Wrestling is a cruise in comparison, but it's narrower. What other OW is there at MG? Oct 2, 2012
Couldn't even make it up this on TR. No doubt it goes at 5.7, but it's offwidth so be aware if you want to lead this one Mar 19, 2011
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
I can accept this. Jul 9, 2010
Hubbard  
Offwidth grading consolidated in the 60's and 70's in Yosemite when offwidth cracks were often the primary routes up walls and the world's best climbers were doing them and rating them. In contrast, face climbs of those days done without sticky rubber shoes often seem over graded today. The grading system reflects the historical perspective. This offwidth grade would be consistent with offwidth grades in Yosemite or more locally at Woodson. Offwidth grades should generally be cross referenced with other offwidths rather than other types of routes. I think you will find agreement with most climbers including offwidth specialists that offwidth climbing is indeed often ridiculous. Mar 31, 2010
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
Ridiculous! Mar 31, 2010
Hubbard  
In my online guide from climbingtoposofsandiego.com I have this route listed as 5.7. Having climbed it, that would be my opinion on the grade. Mar 31, 2010
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
THE RATING 5.6 in both big guides- and frankly either my Offwidth technique is complete and utter garbage, or its ridiculously sandbagged, or its a mistake that has persevered through multiple guides because no one climbs it. I attempted two days ago to get to the top on a top rope solo set-up and got hardcore shut down and ended up finishing and then leading Kathy's and then came back today and committed myself to finish BcktoBasics, and found the 10a Kathy's substantially easier. Mar 29, 2010