Type: Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Art Messier
Page Views: 7,658 total · 36/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Dec 6, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

A hold broke off of this climb in 2020, upping the difficulty a bit. Start directly off the ground below the first bolt with an overhang, mantle move, and then the 2nd crux, a reachy refrigerator hug move which leads to easier ground. The 2nd crux move is tall friendly with reachy jugs, but shorter people can either lunge for the good jugs or still go for the old (more difficult now without the hold, but still doable) lieback move. Great fun with good stances. Too bad the second half isn't as interesting as the first.

Location Suggest change

A little ways uphill from the climber's loop trail at the far right end of the Limbo area. Just right of an obvious offwidth "Back to Basics".

Standard Deviation, also 5.10b is the last bolted climb up the hill from Monkey Dance and is also worthy of attention.

Protection Suggest change

4 bolts to a bolt anchor. First bolt can be clipped by easier ground to the right before you start the overhang section for added safety.