All Locations > California > San Diego County > S San Diego County > Mission Gorge > Limbo Area > Deviate Wall

Monkey Dance

Name: Monkey Dance
Rating: 2.8

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Deviate Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Abacab TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Baby Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Back to Basics T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Burrito S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Cake Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
	Deviate Behavior S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Digitalis TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Indecision TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Kathy's Memorial T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Madison S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Monkey Dance S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Standard Deviation S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Type:	Sport, TR, 40 ft (12 m)
FA:	Art Messier
Page Views:	7,738 total · 35/month
Shared By:	mschlocker on Dec 6, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

A hold broke off of this climb in 2020, upping the difficulty a bit. Start directly off the ground below the first bolt with an overhang, mantle move, and then the 2nd crux, a reachy refrigerator hug move which leads to easier ground. The 2nd crux move is tall friendly with reachy jugs, but shorter people can either lunge for the good jugs or still go for the old (more difficult now without the hold, but still doable) lieback move. Great fun with good stances. Too bad the second half isn't as interesting as the first.

Location

A little ways uphill from the climber's loop trail at the far right end of the Limbo area. Just right of an obvious offwidth "Back to Basics".

Standard Deviation, also 5.10b is the last bolted climb up the hill from Monkey Dance and is also worthy of attention.

Protection

4 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor shared with B2B - contains two links that deserve consideration before lowering off them. First bolt can be clipped by easier ground to the right before you start the overhang section for added safety.

A TR or TRS can be done if the last bolt is used as a redirect or rebelay, respectively. Scramble up the left side of the formation as for Abacab/etc.