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Indecision

5.10a PG13, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 22 votes
FA: Guy Gary, Roger Peck '78
California > San Diego County > S San Diego County > Mission Gorge > Limbo Area

Description

This is the arête between Cake Walk and Baby Dehedral. This route is a weird one with sloapers and pinchers. Resist the urge to hug the whole rock, it'll stalemate ya.

Location

The arête between Cake Walk and Baby Dehedral

Protection

Top rope only, theres a bolt mid-route, but its rusted and useless.
Two anchor bolts with links on top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Several climbs near Indecision.
[Hide Photo] Several climbs near Indecision.
Left side of arete
[Hide Photo] Left side of arete

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

allquieton
Cheyenne, Wyoming
 
[Hide Comment] Anyone familiar with Indecision and Digitalis? Do they share any holds? I posted a photo placing these two routes, but it's a lot of guesswork. If you have better information, let me know. Jun 29, 2011
ChrisL
[Hide Comment] I can see these routes being distinguished based on the initial moves, but I (and my climbing partners) have only managed to do the arete moves on the left-hand side. Perhaps the routes merge halfway up? Jul 16, 2011
allquieton
Cheyenne, Wyoming
 
[Hide Comment] The Kennedy/Hubbard guide lists Indecision as 5.9 and Digitalis as 10a.

Messier lists Indecision as 10b and Digitalis as 5.9.

I was climbing around on these this morning. I don't see any way to stay right of the arete for the whole climb. So I'm thinking Digitalis must head left at some point--probably like you say, at the halfway point.

The only way I could see Indecision being as hard as 10b is if all holds right of the arete are off. Which I tried unsuccessfully, but it seems like it would go. The single (broken) bolt is pretty far left, so I wonder if this was the intent.

I'm inclined to think that Digitalis is just an alternate start for Indecision, and that holds on both sides of the arete are fair game for both climbs. They both seem about 5.9 to me. But if anyone knows more about these two climbs feel free to chime in. Jul 20, 2011
Kevin Kirk
Oakhurst, CA
[Hide Comment] Three loose blocks 3/4 of the way up the climb, I put some “X”s on them and bailed off to the right. They probably would hold body weight but I didn’t want to test them with my belayer underneath me. Nov 28, 2020
Robin Boyington
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] Can you walk up to anchor to set up your top rope? Feb 26, 2022
Phil C
 
[Hide Comment] You can get to the anchor of this route as well as the rest of the routes on this wall by scrambling up the side of Abacab, which is at the climber's left end of the wall, just keep going and you won't miss it, or you can free solo up the 5.3 route, Cakewalk, immediately to the left of this route if you are comfortable. Sep 21, 2022
Jaime Camp Beebe
San Diego, CA
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] Crux move on this is interesting! There's a step up, crux move where the handholds are at your feet. Correct positioning and balance gets you through it. I'll get a photo of the crux move next time I'm on this. I recommend just getting a TR on this climb if you're in the area. Oct 18, 2022