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Routes in Ofen

Der Vogel und das Kind S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Highlight S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Indianer Pfeiler S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leiterlispiel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spitzmuis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wolfsfeder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 600 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 187 total, 2/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Jun 1, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn

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Off limits in winter and spring Details

Description

A classic of the area and most moderate in terms of difficulty, this route has 200 vertical meters and a very substantial amount of traversing in the bottom half. Don’t let the horizontal aspect discourage you though, the traversing bits are easy and pleasant and the vertical terrain makes it all well worthwile.

1 SL 5a – ascend the chimney, a surprisingly pleasant and interesting pitch to get going.

2 SL 6a – a typical Ofen pitch, ascending fairly steep terrain with the help of recurring horizontal cracks. The crux of the pitch is early on, between between the 1st and 3rd bolts, after which the terrain eases off.

3 Sl 5b – following a considerable traverse to the left on easy terrain, the route resumes its upward trend, offering some very nice climbing that, combined with some pre-programmed rope drag, all-but ensures at least a slightly elevated pulse.

4 sl 6a+ - a gem, with sustained difficulty on extremely compact rock. Get right to business with a challenging, somewhat awkward sequence off the belay. Thereafter follows limestone climbing at its finest, in near vertical terrain on water pockets. The route concludes with a substantial traverse to the left, following a good horizontal band.

5 SL 6a+ - easy traversing on a grassy horizontal band is followed by a short section of stout vertical climbing that gives the grade to the pitch. When it starts to feel surprisingly desperate for the grade, a good flake high and to the right keeps things reasonable.

6 SL – shuffle across on a large band to the next anchor and re-set, or continue and suffer moderate to severe rope drag (with 60 meter ropes, you can make it to the next anchor)

7 SL - 5c+ - a demanding start for the grade is
followed by superb face climbing on water pockets

8 SL – 6a - another pitch of fantastic face climbing culminates with some surprisingly challenging and airy layback moves to gain the anchor.

9 SL 6a + follow the corner to the top. This pitch has a very classic flavor, is a bit awkward and a bit chossy.

Location

This route is on the main wall, at the far right end, where there is an obvious chimney. The start of the route is marked.

Descent is by abseilpiste just to the left of where the route tops out.

Protection

Very well protected. No supplemental gear required.

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