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Der Vogel und das Kind
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Ofen
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Der Vogel und das Kind S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Highlight S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Indianer Pfeiler S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Leiterlispiel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Spitzmuis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wolfsfeder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 765 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Colin Winter on Oct 18, 2008 |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Mark P. |
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Access Issue: Off limits in winter and spring
Details
The entire area is off limits, by Federal regulation for the protection of wildlife. in winter 2010/2011, the closure was effective from early winter through mid June. Fines are very very stiff for infraction of federal wildlife regulations.
Description
A classic on the shorter, left (western) side of the wall.
The route is beautiful from start to finish, its highlight a long hand traverse to skirt around a monster roof in the sixth pitch.
Pitch 1: 5c, straightforward face climbing
Pitch 2: 6a, more of the same, with one delicate move in the middle of the pitch giving it the grade.
Pitch 3: 5c, relatively easy climbing up a ramp underneath a roof. The interesting part comes towards the end, where the ramp meets the roof, providing a bit of chimney-like climbing to reach the anchor. Unfortunately, this pitch is sometimes moist.
Pitch 4: 6a+ or 5b, the original route continues up a corner at 5b. When the route was rebolted some years ago, a phenomenal new variation was created, which takes you out right of the corner and onto a face of beautiful, compact vertical rock with great crimps.
Pitch 5: 4a, a short scramble onto a ledge to get into position for the next pitch.
Pitch 6: 6a+, the highlight of the route. You move up on steep, positive holds, climbing right up underneath a very large roof. Right where the face and the roof meet, there is a continuous, sinker horizontal crack which you hand-traverse for a good 10 meters to get out from under the roof and gain the anchor. The holds are bomber all the way, but the face you are traversing cuts away underneath you, so there are limits to how much you can alleviate the strain on your upper body. After periods of rain this crack can be moist, which adds to the excitement.
Pitch 7: 6a+, a stellar last pitch moving up and right on steep, sharp, pocketed stone.
The route is beautiful from start to finish, its highlight a long hand traverse to skirt around a monster roof in the sixth pitch.
Pitch 1: 5c, straightforward face climbing
Pitch 2: 6a, more of the same, with one delicate move in the middle of the pitch giving it the grade.
Pitch 3: 5c, relatively easy climbing up a ramp underneath a roof. The interesting part comes towards the end, where the ramp meets the roof, providing a bit of chimney-like climbing to reach the anchor. Unfortunately, this pitch is sometimes moist.
Pitch 4: 6a+ or 5b, the original route continues up a corner at 5b. When the route was rebolted some years ago, a phenomenal new variation was created, which takes you out right of the corner and onto a face of beautiful, compact vertical rock with great crimps.
Pitch 5: 4a, a short scramble onto a ledge to get into position for the next pitch.
Pitch 6: 6a+, the highlight of the route. You move up on steep, positive holds, climbing right up underneath a very large roof. Right where the face and the roof meet, there is a continuous, sinker horizontal crack which you hand-traverse for a good 10 meters to get out from under the roof and gain the anchor. The holds are bomber all the way, but the face you are traversing cuts away underneath you, so there are limits to how much you can alleviate the strain on your upper body. After periods of rain this crack can be moist, which adds to the excitement.
Pitch 7: 6a+, a stellar last pitch moving up and right on steep, sharp, pocketed stone.
Location
The route is in the "Dach" sector of Ofen, which is to the left (west) of the somewhat longer main wall. Use the monster roof in the middle of the wall as orientation to find the right general area to search for the start (the route runs left of the roof).
A bird and child, as per the name of the route, is painted on the rock to mark the start.
Descent is by abseilpiste directly from the last anchor of the route.
A bird and child, as per the name of the route, is painted on the rock to mark the start.
Descent is by abseilpiste directly from the last anchor of the route.
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