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Routes in Ofen

Der Vogel und das Kind S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Highlight S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Indianer Pfeiler S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Leiterlispiel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spitzmuis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wolfsfeder S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: K Winkler, P Schoch, W Britschgi
Page Views: 278 total, 4/month
Shared By: Colin Winter on Jul 25, 2012
Admins: Dan Flynn

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Off limits in winter and spring Details

Description

A wicked route on perfect rock from start to finish. Starts stout and subtly taps the reserves through moderate pitches in the middle before commanding the most power and endurance in the final three pitches. The climbing is mostly technical, but at times distinctly athletic. IMHO the best of the longer routes at Ofen, and since its refurbishment in 2006 a pure sport route.

P1: 6a+ (crux comes fairly early and feels hard for the grade)
P2: 5c+
P3: 5c
P4: 6a+
P5: 5c+
P6: 6b+ (for shorter people the crux is probably getting to the shelf above the roof, for the Lurches among us the crux is to get stabilized on the shelf above the roof.... the real test, others may find, is the mantle up onto the belay platform...
P7 and P8, both 6c, are a dream for those with hardened fingertips.... world-class, razor sharp water pockets from start to finish!

Location

Between the main wall and the shorter "Vogel" sector; perhaps 10 meters to the left of the Indianer Pfeiler.

Descend by way of the abseilpiste from the top of the neighboring route to the right, the Indianer Pfeiler.

Protection

Bolted (impeccably)

Photos

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