Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||K Winkler, P Schoch, W Britschgi|
|Page Views:||278 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||Colin Winter on Jul 25, 2012|
Off limits in winter and spring Details
The entire area is off limits, by Federal regulation for the protection of wildlife. in winter 2010/2011, the closure was effective from early winter through mid June. Fines are very very stiff for infraction of federal wildlife regulations.
DescriptionA wicked route on perfect rock from start to finish. Starts stout and subtly taps the reserves through moderate pitches in the middle before commanding the most power and endurance in the final three pitches. The climbing is mostly technical, but at times distinctly athletic. IMHO the best of the longer routes at Ofen, and since its refurbishment in 2006 a pure sport route.
P1: 6a+ (crux comes fairly early and feels hard for the grade)
P6: 6b+ (for shorter people the crux is probably getting to the shelf above the roof, for the Lurches among us the crux is to get stabilized on the shelf above the roof.... the real test, others may find, is the mantle up onto the belay platform...
P7 and P8, both 6c, are a dream for those with hardened fingertips.... world-class, razor sharp water pockets from start to finish!
LocationBetween the main wall and the shorter "Vogel" sector; perhaps 10 meters to the left of the Indianer Pfeiler.
Descend by way of the abseilpiste from the top of the neighboring route to the right, the Indianer Pfeiler.