Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Scott Ayers
Page Views: 169 total · 2/month
Shared By: RyanJames on May 13, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. Details

Description

Pull up and on to the beautiful, baby's-butt like limestone to a decent jug. While the wall looks virtually blank, holds appear. The crux comes after the third bolt - from here, traverse to the left on crappy feet and small crimps; reach way out left to a sidepull and you're done with the technical crux.

After this low crux, the route eases off a bit for a couple bolts then becomes increasingly more inverted as you climb to a noticable cave under the roof. Climb into the cave, crack open a beer (if that's your thang), and enjoy the exposure: you'll be looking several hundred feet down into the canyon below.

The next crux comes as you pull the roof above the cave. After this, flow up through the fun fingerlocks while the route again becomes more overhanging to the anchors.

This route will definitely become one of the signature routes of the North Butt.

Location

This route is located at about the middle of the North Buttress wall. It climbs into a cave-like orifice in the wall.

Protection

12 bolts

Photos

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Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
  5.11c
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
  5.11c
This route is awesome! May 13, 2011
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
  5.12
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
  5.12
Full value amazing route. Oct 26, 2011
Joseph M.
Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Joseph M.   Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Full value with many thought-provoking sections! The sit-down hueco feature/rest makes this route an instant classic!! Apr 17, 2012
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
 
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
 
The only shitty part about this route, is that shitty part... getting into the cave. The rest of the route makes it worthy of the four stars. Oct 1, 2012
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11c
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11c
the second bolt on this route is placed on uneven rock and, since the route traverses sharply here, causes the bolt to either crossload your draw or for the bolt to spin and loosen the nut. It would be VERY bad if something came loos or broke at the second bolt since that is the crux of the climb and you are a good 30' off the deck.

Otherwise, super fun climbing! Dec 21, 2016
Aaron Townsley
Scottsdale, Arizona
Aaron Townsley   Scottsdale, Arizona
Very active BEE hive midway up this. I would avoid this and the routes immediately to both sides. Nov 2018
UPDATE: As of the end of NOV this hive is still very active and a climbing party ignored the note I left on the wall at the base of this climb and got stung around 16 times from what I heard. STAY AWAY FROM THIS ROUTE AND THOSE IMMEDIATELY TO EITHER SIDE unless you like being stung.. Nov 13, 2018